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  1. #1001
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    Thanks Vik!

    I will explore the Mudhugger, thanks. I see you and Travis are big fans over on the Knolly forum!

  2. #1002
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    Yes for sure. Vancouver Island winters are moist. Not getting spray from the rear wheel on your body [as much] or on the dropper/rear shock is super nice. I wouldn't ride in the winter without one.
    Safe riding,

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  3. #1003
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    Looks like a great plan J.

    Are you going to keep this thread going or start a new one for the new bike?

    Hard to imagine I can manage at all with the HTA at 70 degrees on my Carver Gnarvester. It may be a tad slacker as I've got a 120mm fork on there, but still.

    I'll have to demo one of these new-fangled slack-long-low bikes... Someday.
    --Reamer

  4. #1004
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    Quote Originally Posted by reamer41 View Post
    Looks like a great plan J.

    Are you going to keep this thread going or start a new one for the new bike?

    Hard to imagine I can manage at all with the HTA at 70 degrees on my Carver Gnarvester. It may be a tad slacker as I've got a 120mm fork on there, but still.

    I'll have to demo one of these new-fangled slack-long-low bikes... Someday.
    Ha ha its hard to imagine how we ever managed back in the 90s on fully rigid, rim braked, slightly better than road bikes?!! As long as youre enjoying yourself it doesnt matter what the numbers say!

    Im going to keep this thread going for as long as people are interested in hearing about the new bike too. It tells a story I guess.

  5. #1005
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    Hum. Well you know me, I've bene on this "journey" since it started, and we've discussed riding likes/habits a bit so I'll stick with that and give me feedback.

    Honestly for the type of riding you like to do, not sure I'd slack it out the full 2 degrees, I'd go 1.5* to 67* at that A2C, 513mm is not too long, think about a sagged 130mm travel fork.
    I'd also not make that complete 2 degree STA jump and go to 73.5* and/or order yourself a 9point8 FallLine with offset head and straight head.
    I'd also make the 425mm CS length for when the stays are slammed forward, because for 29+, that's pretty damn short and on longer days in the saddle with lots of climbing, you might enjoy the help longer stays will give.

    I think the planned changes will bias it too far towards the descending side of trail riding and make you have to compromise on other aspects on long rides with lots of varying terrain, not just straight up or down Just some thoughts of mine after following this thread and chatting, glad to hear that things are moving forward finally.
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  6. #1006
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    Hum. Well you know me, I've bene on this "journey" since it started, and we've discussed riding likes/habits a bit so I'll stick with that and give me feedback.

    Honestly for the type of riding you like to do, not sure I'd slack it out the full 2 degrees, I'd go 1.5* to 67* at that A2C, 513mm is not too long, think about a sagged 130mm travel fork.
    I'd also not make that complete 2 degree STA jump and go to 73.5* and/or order yourself a 9point8 FallLine with offset head and straight head.
    I'd also make the 425mm CS length for when the stays are slammed forward, because for 29+, that's pretty damn short and on longer days in the saddle with lots of climbing, you might enjoy the help longer stays will give.

    I think the planned changes will bias it too far towards the descending side of trail riding and make you have to compromise on other aspects on long rides with lots of varying terrain, not just straight up or down Just some thoughts of mine after following this thread and chatting, glad to hear that things are moving forward finally.
    I appreciate your input as ever LyNx BUT... LOL

    I have always gelled with steeper seat angles over slack, its one of the things I would have changed about UW1 and as Walt says, I dont think this is too much of a change. 76 would have been but 74.1 should be fine.

    The 425mm chainstay mimics where UW1 sat 99% of the time even with smaller wheels and tyres. Its a great balance. Im not using rockers on this bike but I knew I wanted 425.

    The head angle will balance out with the increased reach and steeper seat angle. It does seem like the most extreme move to me but not out there by any stretch. We may tighten it up slightly as we might spec a 44mm offset 34 on the bike yet. Thats to be decided in the coming days.

    I do appreciate what you say though, the UW is all about being an all rounder. The ultimate tool for the job. Thats MASSIVELY important to me because I like to use it everywhere and favour it over a full suspension bike. In fact Im currently about to boycott carbon and see if I can manage without a FS in my garage again too. So being an all rounder is as important as ever right now...

  7. #1007
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    UW2 is gonna be a ripper!!!

    Im thinking youre going to love this one even more.
    "I ride to clear my head, my head is clearer when I'm riding SS. Therefore, I choose to ride SS."~ Fullrange Drew

  8. #1008
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    Quote Originally Posted by nitrousjunky View Post
    UW2 is gonna be a ripper!!!

    Im thinking youre going to love this one even more.
    I'm with NJ -- UW2 is gonna rip!

    J, you know what you're doing and you don't need any back seat know-it-alls trying to undermine your own solid decisions for YOUR bike. That's nothing you solicited. You & Walt have unquestionably nailed the design; I hope you've already given Walt the green light to proceed -- now, while you wait, prepare to fall in love all over again.

    I can hardly wait to see photos of the final product.
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  9. #1009
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    Looks like UW2 is gonna be a blast...
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  10. #1010
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    Thanks guys, the way I see it is its still exhibiting progressive geometry but theres nothing extreme there.

    If you look at new bikes from the likes of Cotic with their SodaMax, Chromags Surface and especially the Pipedream Moxie they are much longer and a little slacker.

    I think with a custom bike like this, youve got to reign certain aspects back without creating a monster and I think these numbers represent a good balance. I originally wanted a 67-68 head angle, but Walt suggested going a little slacker given the other geometry traits were going for. I was also going to go A LOT longer with a 1.5 steeper seat tube, but Walt reigned me in on that front.

  11. #1011
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    Just looking at the numbers, it looks to be a riot. Im certain youll have a blast on it, especially where youve had the chance to fine tune everything with UW1.0...
    Salsa Timberjack SS
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  12. #1012
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    Well, you know me, I'll always give you what you pay for

    But seriously, that's the important part to me from all your reports is that you keep the all around ability of the bike, as that's what you want from it, from long days across the moors with hardly anything you'd call a DH to days with lots of climbing and proper descending.

    I'll be interested to hear your thoughts on the changes once you get it and get in a few rides. I know that while I liked the Unit setup B+/29+ and external lower cup, which gave me a roughly 66.2* HTA for descending, on the more flat, tight flowy stuff, it definitely made me have to concentrate more and work harder to keep from pushing through the corners.

    The one thing I guess I keep forgetting is you run a sus fork and so your HTA will steepen up, whereas I run rigid, so my numbers don't change during the ride, always keep forgetting that as I picture the UW as a rigid

    Quote Originally Posted by Just J View Post
    I appreciate your input as ever LyNx BUT... ..............I do appreciate what you say though, the UW is all about being an all rounder. The ultimate tool for the job. Thats MASSIVELY important to me because I like to use it everywhere and favour it over a full suspension bike. In fact Im currently about to boycott carbon and see if I can manage without a FS in my garage again too. So being an all rounder is as important as ever right now...
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  13. #1013
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    Well, you know me, I'll always give you what you pay for

    But seriously, that's the important part to me from all your reports is that you keep the all around ability of the bike, as that's what you want from it, from long days across the moors with hardly anything you'd call a DH to days with lots of climbing and proper descending.

    I'll be interested to hear your thoughts on the changes once you get it and get in a few rides. I know that while I liked the Unit setup B+/29+ and external lower cup, which gave me a roughly 66.2* HTA for descending, on the more flat, tight flowy stuff, it definitely made me have to concentrate more and work harder to keep from pushing through the corners.

    The one thing I guess I keep forgetting is you run a sus fork and so your HTA will steepen up, whereas I run rigid, so my numbers don't change during the ride, always keep forgetting that as I picture the UW as a rigid
    Yep you definitely give more than I bargained/asked for! Ha ha :P

    You are correct though, you've summed up exactly what I want from these bikes, but I really think this is the way forward, we've gone steeper in the ST which is only going to help with these things, the UW1 was really slack and sometimes was a bit of a handful on steeper climbs, I had to weight the front down consciously and much more than I would on any of my more recent bikes. This and the longer reach (it's still not that long if you compare with other modern bikes) will help with that. The slacker head tube will work well with the new geometry, as I say we still might steepen it slightly to 67 and yes, you're right, the bike will be suspended. I'm going to save my rigid fork for Payton when and if she comes back to me then your picture would be correct, as long as that picture also includes a singlespeed setup!?...

  14. #1014
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    Here you go LyNx, just for you. Itll probably ride like a POS now!!


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    The UW2 is the right decision. imho.
    But before you put your order you should demo a bike with the planned steep STA like the Commencal Meta HT. I could not ride this kind of Geo...

  16. #1016
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    Can we call the new frame MUW: More-Ultimater Warrior?
    Safe riding,

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  17. #1017
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    Quote Originally Posted by vikb View Post
    Can we call the new frame MUW: More-Ultimater Warrior?
    I think we're going to have to now!!

  18. #1018
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    Quote Originally Posted by Just J View Post
    Here you go LyNx, just for you. Itll probably ride like a POS now!!

    Listen man, give an old guy a break, always thinking around a rigid with a max 490 A2C rigid fork, so basically nothing more than a 120mm sus fork, more likely a 100mm If I did think about or was considering a sus fork, it's just be to take the edge off ever so slightly and to have control over the rebound of the plus tyres, heck if I could find a proper, working HeadShok, that'd work for me to help control the un-damped rebound of those 3" balloons. Also, hate having my HTA be able to change by as much as 5 degrees, not generally a problem with rigid or full sus.

    No matter all my thoughts, when all's said and done it's your bike, you rode the V1 for a year and would have figured out just what was working and what wasn't, so don't go changing anything for me - I'd be inclined to use all the numbers you and Walt first came up with, but based around a 500mm A2C fork

    BTW, assuming that the fork A2C is sagged and representative of a 140mm travel fork
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  19. #1019
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    Quote Originally Posted by vikb View Post
    Can we call the new frame MUW: More-Ultimater Warrior?
    Hahahaha! Gnarlier and rope shake-ier than ever.


  20. #1020
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    Quote Originally Posted by croatiansensation View Post
    Hahahaha! Gnarlier and rope shake-ier than ever.

    That. Is. Awesome. The official GIF of this thread right there.

  21. #1021
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    Quote Originally Posted by quite.right View Post
    The UW2 is the right decision. imho.
    But before you put your order you should demo a bike with the planned steep STA like the Commencal Meta HT. I could not ride this kind of Geo...

    I agree with this. I bought a bike with a steeper STA, even with a layback seatpost I feel cannot get my knees ideal over the pedals in a comfortable spot. Just to much forward over pedals for me, and I cannot go to longer cranks with low bottom bracket, would pedal strike like crazy. I guess will depend on your leg measurements if works for you.

  22. #1022
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    I would agree. I don't like steep STAs. I can't pedal efficiently on flat terrain with them. So I am forced to use setback droppers on "modern" geo bikes.

    That said the last drawing posted of the MUW showed a STA of ~74 deg at ride height. That's not super steep and with a setback post that could be a 73 deg STA or the saddle could be slide fwd to make it steeper. So JJ would have a pretty reasonable range of adjustment as long as he is not stuck on a very specific stem length/bar sweep.
    Safe riding,

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  23. #1023
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    All very interesting comments thanks guys although I think the steeper STA will work for me, remember Im using Pedaling Innovations Catalyst Pedals that encourage a mid foot position so my feet naturally want to be further forward. I really do think this will work I my favour but as Vikb says, the MUW/UW2 isnt going to be crazy steep not like say something such as the Pipedream Moxie which is 76.

  24. #1024
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    Waltworks Ultimate Warrior

    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    Listen man, give an old guy a break, always thinking around a rigid with a max 490 A2C rigid fork, so basically nothing more than a 120mm sus fork, more likely a 100mm If I did think about or was considering a sus fork, it's just be to take the edge off ever so slightly and to have control over the rebound of the plus tyres, heck if I could find a proper, working HeadShok, that'd work for me to help control the un-damped rebound of those 3" balloons. Also, hate having my HTA be able to change by as much as 5 degrees, not generally a problem with rigid or full sus.

    No matter all my thoughts, when all's said and done it's your bike, you rode the V1 for a year and would have figured out just what was working and what wasn't, so don't go changing anything for me - I'd be inclined to use all the numbers you and Walt first came up with, but based around a 500mm A2C fork

    BTW, assuming that the fork A2C is sagged and representative of a 140mm travel fork
    Aww LyNx sorry man, I dont like to mock the aged one bit, but youre so stuck in your ways you make it hard not to sometimes!!

    The A2C is sagged I believe and represents a 120mm Fox 34 which I will be running again.

    Speaking of forks, does anyone know if the 34 Step Cast plays well with 29+?...

  25. #1025
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    So I need to consider what wheelset to spec on the new build as we're going a 157mm rear end. Any suggestions?

    Should I strip my LB rims down and have them built onto some DT Swiss 240's? Any other good rim options with a 40-45mm internal width?

    I'll probably keep my existing 34 for now as it is dialled but I'm planning on a less colourful build this time, Cane Creek 110 Headset, eeWing cranks and I'll keep the rest of the orange Hope stuff incase Payton sorts herself out at some point!...

    What do you think?...

  26. #1026
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    The 34 Stepcast will work with 29+:
    https://www.instagram.com/p/BjYXl1uh...n-by=waltworks

    That's the Performance model but the arch is the same on the Factory ones.

    The really cool thing, IMO, is that they are indistinguishable from the "normal" 34 when riding, at least as far as I can feel/tell. For once the (sort of) weight weenie option isn't sucky!

    -Walt

  27. #1027
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    Quote Originally Posted by Walt View Post
    The 34 Stepcast will work with 29+:
    https://www.instagram.com/p/BjYXl1uh...n-by=waltworks

    That's the Performance model but the arch is the same on the Factory ones.

    The really cool thing, IMO, is that they are indistinguishable from the "normal" 34 when riding, at least as far as I can feel/tell. For once the (sort of) weight weenie option isn't sucky!

    -Walt
    This is what I was hoping for! Thanks Walt, youll have mail before the weekends out!

  28. #1028
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    DT 240 157 is sweet - I also have 440 and 350. they are IMO the best hubs available you can upgrade the ratchets if more pick up is your thing...

    and you can get cool decals from Slik if you want to stealth them....

    Waltworks Ultimate Warrior-screen-shot-2018-10-13-11.37.39.jpg

    Waltworks Ultimate Warrior-screen-shot-2018-10-13-11.37.54.jpg

    Waltworks Ultimate Warrior-screen-shot-2018-10-13-11.38.08.jpg

    Waltworks Ultimate Warrior-44298275365_33563d8cbd_z.jpg

    They also do fox graphics, btw - super good quality...

    Waltworks Ultimate Warrior-screen-shot-2018-10-13-11.37.06.jpg

    Waltworks Ultimate Warrior-screen-shot-2018-10-13-11.36.50.jpg

    Derby rims or Nextie for me - sometimes I wish the enve M640 was available 32 hole, but its so expensive and the Derby's are so good....

  29. #1029
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    You asked

    Stick to the HOPEs Dude, they've worked for you in the past and you can get colour if you want (colour is always nice and not boring IMHO). I have been running a 150x12 Hope for over 2 years now and I've had no issues (as normal for me with Hope), very happy with the Pro4 engagement, just add end caps to go 157. Granted, they are a "typical" 150mm hub, so flanges are identical width with lots of room between NDS flange and disc mount, so you just use a normal driled rim to build a dishless wheel. They do offer a DH version, but AFAIK, it will only take 7 or 8 cogs, but flanges are then evenly spread further apart, for an even stronger, dishless build using a normal drilled rim.

    If you build a 157 "boost" hub, you will have to use an offset drilled rim in order to build a dishless wheel. I have a Nuke Proof 150 hub that's spaced like the so called new super boost standard, had to build, as said with an offset rim to get a dishless build, there are a few other manufacturers with hubs like these out there including the new stuff from DT and a few others.

    Quote Originally Posted by Just J View Post
    So I need to consider what wheelset to spec on the new build as we're going a 157mm rear end. Any suggestions?

    Should I strip my LB rims down and have them built onto some DT Swiss 240's? Any other good rim options with a 40-45mm internal width?

    What do you think?...
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  30. #1030
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    Quote Originally Posted by Just J View Post
    So I need to consider what wheelset to spec on the new build as we're going a 157mm rear end. Any suggestions?

    Should I strip my LB rims down and have them built onto some DT Swiss 240's? Any other good rim options with a 40-45mm internal width?

    I'll probably keep my existing 34 for now as it is dialled but I'm planning on a less colourful build this time, Cane Creek 110 Headset, eeWing cranks and I'll keep the rest of the orange Hope stuff incase Payton sorts herself out at some point!...

    What do you think?...
    Have you used Chris King hubs in the past? I love them. There are lighter hubs out there so if absolute grams is your option look elsewhere, but definitely worth a look.

    Theyll last forever. User serviceable (and do require a little maintenance). They are smooth, quick engaging, and very strong. And look good.

    Lace them up with your LB rims or Derbys and youll have some sweet wheels.
    --Reamer

  31. #1031
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    Quote Originally Posted by dRjOn View Post
    DT 240 157 is sweet - I also have 440 and 350. they are IMO the best hubs available you can upgrade the ratchets if more pick up is your thing...

    and you can get cool decals from Slik if you want to stealth them....

    Click image for larger version. 

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    They also do fox graphics, btw - super good quality...

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Derby rims or Nextie for me - sometimes I wish the enve M640 was available 32 hole, but its so expensive and the Derby's are so good....
    Thanks for posting, those decals look great!

    Ive got a pair of DT Wheels on my gravel bike and I upgraded to the 52T, theyve been awesome so far. One thing I didnt like about the 240s was their graphics where the OEM 350s look really cool...



    Ill have another look at Nextie and Derby, although my LBs have been faultless so far too.

  32. #1032
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    You asked

    Stick to the HOPEs Dude, they've worked for you in the past and you can get colour if you want (colour is always nice and not boring IMHO). I have been running a 150x12 Hope for over 2 years now and I've had no issues (as normal for me with Hope), very happy with the Pro4 engagement, just add end caps to go 157. Granted, they are a "typical" 150mm hub, so flanges are identical width with lots of room between NDS flange and disc mount, so you just use a normal driled rim to build a dishless wheel. They do offer a DH version, but AFAIK, it will only take 7 or 8 cogs, but flanges are then evenly spread further apart, for an even stronger, dishless build using a normal drilled rim.

    If you build a 157 "boost" hub, you will have to use an offset drilled rim in order to build a dishless wheel. I have a Nuke Proof 150 hub that's spaced like the so called new super boost standard, had to build, as said with an offset rim to get a dishless build, there are a few other manufacturers with hubs like these out there including the new stuff from DT and a few others.
    Since running DT and I9 hubs on my other bikes Im not enjoying the engagement of the Hopes, theyre really great and resilient hubs but I fancied a change this time round. Thanks for heads up on the rims, we used a 6mm offset on Payton, Im not sure what Walts plan is on MUW so I will see what he reckons too.

  33. #1033
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    Quote Originally Posted by reamer41 View Post
    Have you used Chris King hubs in the past? I love them. There are lighter hubs out there so if absolute grams is your option look elsewhere, but definitely worth a look.

    Theyll last forever. User serviceable (and do require a little maintenance). They are smooth, quick engaging, and very strong. And look good.

    Lace them up with your LB rims or Derbys and youll have some sweet wheels.
    I have used Chris King hubs in the past and loved how they worked and how user serviceable they were.

    Hmmm lots of options but man Ive got too many wheels in my garage nowadays!!

  34. #1034
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    Quote Originally Posted by Just J View Post
    Since running DT and I9 hubs on my other bikes Im not enjoying the engagement of the Hopes, theyre really great and resilient hubs but I fancied a change this time round. Thanks for heads up on the rims, we used a 6mm offset on Payton, Im not sure what Walts plan is on MUW so I will see what he reckons too.
    Onyx are available in 157, since putting one on my ROS9, I've been looking at weaning myself off clicky hubs, silence is as they say, golden. I've run Hope, Hadley, Kings, and various Shimanos, and it's no contest.
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  35. #1035
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    Quote Originally Posted by socal_jack View Post
    Onyx are available in 157, since putting one on my ROS9, I've been looking at weaning myself off clicky hubs, silence is as they say, golden. I've run Hope, Hadley, Kings, and various Shimanos, and it's no contest.
    Id also like to try a silent hub, Im kind of over making noise and I want to hear the bike and the trail.

    I had a look at the new XTR Scylence hubs last week, my friend is a Shimano tech guy and has a bike built with the full XTR kit on it. The engagement wasnt very quick however which surprised me but wow they were erm silent!

  36. #1036
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    This is pretty handy off the Knolly website.

    https://www.knollybikes.com/engineering

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    THAT is a very good and important point that I honestly forgot about and will make a big difference over someone like me who runs clipless, even with the fact that I've got the cleats slammed nearly all the way as far back as they'll go.

    Quote Originally Posted by Just J View Post
    All very interesting comments thanks guys although I think the steeper STA will work for me, remember Im using Pedaling Innovations Catalyst Pedals that encourage a mid foot position so my feet naturally want to be further forward. I really do think this will work I my favour but as Vikb says, the MUW/UW2 isnt going to be crazy steep not like say something such as the Pipedream Moxie which is 76.
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  38. #1038
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    Quote Originally Posted by Just J View Post


    This is pretty handy off the Knolly website.

    https://www.knollybikes.com/engineering
    Interesting table. I'm questioning the ranking a bit though.
    The Novatec being near the top of the "optimized for strength and stiffness" category, while the CK being at the cusp of "strength and compliance" and "more compliant" --yet the CH has .5mm wider DS flange all only 0.4mm less brace on the NDS flange. I believe the CK hub will build up as a stiffer/stronger wheel than the Novatec -- if those fractions of a mm made any difference at all...

    In most other cases the ranking in general seems reasonable - wider flange spacing = stronger/stiffer wheel.

    Yeah - I like King stuff. Maybe I'm biased, but what's the basis for the ranking?
    --Reamer

  39. #1039
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    Quote Originally Posted by reamer41 View Post
    Interesting table. I'm questioning the ranking a bit though.
    The Novatec being near the top of the "optimized for strength and stiffness" category, while the CK being at the cusp of "strength and compliance" and "more compliant" --yet the CH has .5mm wider DS flange all only 0.4mm less brace on the NDS flange. I believe the CK hub will build up as a stiffer/stronger wheel than the Novatec -- if those fractions of a mm made any difference at all...

    In most other cases the ranking in general seems reasonable - wider flange spacing = stronger/stiffer wheel.

    Yeah - I like King stuff. Maybe I'm biased, but what's the basis for the ranking?
    Im not actually sure they are ranked, I just took it to mean that the three colours or sections offered differing ride qualities. In theory.

    I highly doubt Knolly or anyone else has put any of that to the test but its definitely a good way of seeing what hubs are available and will work with 157mm.

  40. #1040
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    Onyx 157 hubs have the new style superboost+ flange spacing....

    So do the DT Swiss

    Does anyone know if DT Swiss is selling 157 SB+ hubs to the public right now?

    When I was building my wheelset a few months ago you could purchase 157 hubs... but they were old school flang spacing... DT had an exclusive deal with Pivot at that time

    Nevertheless.... My Onyx hub has been SICK.... ZERO drag and INSTANT engagement, I would seriously consider one

    and if weight is ultimate priority maybe a DT 240 w SB+ flange spacing



    Looks like you are hellbent on carbon hoops... I think this will suit 29+ well

    I would consider BERD spokes considering the overall pedigree of this bike

    -

    Ive been LOVING my Oveja Negra bolt on top tube bag! Go for some top tube braze ons!!!!!

    -

    Is also seriously consider Maxxis 29 x 3.0 DHF/DHR combo

    Geo looks spot on!
    I think the 67 HTA is a better choice for 29+ for where you ride and what you are wanting out of the bike

    All other geo looks spot on

    Liking the stainless seat tube idea!
    Loveing the Eewings cranks idea!!!!
    Loving the stainless BB shell idea

    Id heavily consider running carbon hoops in the 30-35 ID variety
    If 29 x 3.0 is the max tire size, in order to shave even more rotating weight and have superior rim and sidewal protection

    What is the max chainring you are currently specd for?

  41. #1041
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikeetheviking View Post
    Onyx 157 hubs have the new style superboost+ flange spacing....

    So do the DT Swiss

    Does anyone know if DT Swiss is selling 157 SB+ hubs to the public right now?

    When I was building my wheelset a few months ago you could purchase 157 hubs... but they were old school flang spacing... DT had an exclusive deal with Pivot at that time

    Nevertheless.... My Onyx hub has been SICK.... ZERO drag and INSTANT engagement, I would seriously consider one

    and if weight is ultimate priority maybe a DT 240 w SB+ flange spacing



    Looks like you are hellbent on carbon hoops... I think this will suit 29+ well

    I would consider BERD spokes considering the overall pedigree of this bike

    -

    Ive been LOVING my Oveja Negra bolt on top tube bag! Go for some top tube braze ons!!!!!

    -

    Is also seriously consider Maxxis 29 x 3.0 DHF/DHR combo

    Geo looks spot on!
    I think the 67 HTA is a better choice for 29+ for where you ride and what you are wanting out of the bike

    All other geo looks spot on

    Liking the stainless seat tube idea!
    Loveing the Eewings cranks idea!!!!
    Loving the stainless BB shell idea

    Id heavily consider running carbon hoops in the 30-35 ID variety
    If 29 x 3.0 is the max tire size, in order to shave even more rotating weight and have superior rim and sidewal protection

    What is the max chainring you are currently specd for?
    Hey Mikee!

    Im airing on the side of DT SuperBoost hubs at the moment if we can get them and Ive emailed Mikesee about building me something so well see which spikes he suggests. Im definitely not hellbent on carbon anything to be fair, Ive asked Mike when alloy rims he would advise on. Probably something up to 40mm internal width. Ive decided not to strip the 45mm LB wheels down, Ill keep them for Payton.

    Going with braze ons on the TT!

    Ive got a brand new pair of 29x3 Minions for it so were on the same wavelength here as ever! But Ive asked if we can go for 3.25 clearance for when I want to run the Duro Cruxs although Id only be able to run them with the rigid forks.

  42. #1042
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    Quote Originally Posted by Just J View Post
    But Ive asked if we can go for 3.25 clearance for when I want to run the Duro Cruxs although Id only be able to run them with the rigid forks.
    Or in a Manitou Pro Magnum/Mattoc fork.
    "I ride to clear my head, my head is clearer when I'm riding SS. Therefore, I choose to ride SS."~ Fullrange Drew

  43. #1043
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    Quote Originally Posted by nitrousjunky View Post
    Or in a Manitou Pro Magnum/Mattoc fork.
    I had considered that fork too, but to be honest I doubt I would use the Crux enough to warrant moving to a different fork for, if that makes sense?

  44. #1044
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    Quote Originally Posted by Just J View Post
    I had considered that fork too, but to be honest I doubt I would use the Crux enough to warrant moving to a different fork for, if that makes sense?
    It does. Figured I'd through that out there just in case though.
    "I ride to clear my head, my head is clearer when I'm riding SS. Therefore, I choose to ride SS."~ Fullrange Drew

  45. #1045
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    Quote Originally Posted by nitrousjunky View Post
    It does. Figured I'd through that out there just in case though.
    No worries, thanks for the suggestion!

  46. #1046
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    Well the UW2/MUW is go! Walt informed me earlier in the week that the stainless parts had arrived and they are very shiny! I'm not sure if these will be a design feature of the build, I leave all that kind of thing to Walt!

    I have been in touch with Mike Curiak (Mikesee) of LaceMine29, we've been talking about building a rather fancy wheelset utilising some Berd spokes, however Mike had a pair of fairly lightly used Droc 40's built onto an Onyx front hub and a DT Swiss 240 rear. The opportunity was too good to miss, I haven't used Sun Ringl wheels since the early 90's and was a little hesitant about these when Mike mentioned them as his suggestion for me, but he also pointed out that they weigh within a few grams of really nice and comparative carbon rims, which fits in very well with this build. Although I had decided that I want to go silent on this bike with some Onyx hubs, the 240's are tried and tested and I know they work really well so I am sure I will be more than happy with them on this bike, certainly until the need to upgrade to those Berd spokes ensues!!

    Some of you might think the decision to go with 36mm internal width rims is an interesting one, given that I was running 45mm on Payton. However, my main choice of tyre is still going to be Chupacabra's/XR2's on this bike and I found (Mike's findings were much the same) that the tyre suits the narrower rim which I ran initially (Arc 35). The 45mm rims flattened out the tyre a little too much, made them feel needlessly sluggish although those rims worked very well with the chunkier DHF I also run. I reckon the Drocs have all the signs of working well for me...

    I've decided on a new spec for this bike, we're moving away from anodized orange although I'm still looking for inspiration in regard to brakes and the stem. Who knows, I might retain the Hope brakes and stem for a throw back to the original UW?...

    Here's my intended build so far:

    Waltworks Ultimate Warrior v2.0

    FRAME: Waltworks

    FORKS: Fox Factory 34 Stepcast 120mm Orange

    HEADSET: Canecreek 110 Black

    RIMS: Sun Ringl Droc 40

    HUBS: Onyx & DT Swiss 240

    SPOKES: DT Swiss Competition and SuperComp, with DT Prolock alloy nips

    TYRES: Maxxis Minion DHF/DHR 29x3.0

    HANDLEBARS: Thomson Ti

    STEM: Hope 35mm???

    GRIPS: Sensus Lite

    SEATPOST: 9Point8 175mm/Bikeyoke Revive 185mm or One Up 170mm

    LEVER: Wolftooth ReMote

    SADDLE: Fabric Scoop Shallow Race Ti

    CRANKSET: Canecreek eeWings Mountain 175mm

    CHAINRING: ELLIPTICAL DIRECT MOUNT CHAINRINGS FOR SRAM CRANKS

    BOTTOM BRACKET: Chris King Ceramic Matte Black

    CHAIN: SRAM Eagle XX1

    REAR DERAILIEUR: SRAM Eagle XX1

    CASSETTE: SRAM Eagle XX1

    SHIFTER: Sram Eagle XX1

    BRAKES: Hope E4 or Sram Guide RSC???

    As ever, the hardest part about this project, for me is the colour. I have a few thousand to choose from but all I know is I want the frame's colour to pop and the rest of the build kit to look more muted and factory if that makes sense?

  47. #1047
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    Sounding good!

    Id match that Thomson bar with a Thomson stem.

    Ive been running 29x3 tires on 39mm rims. Works great! Im sure 36mm will be fine.
    --Reamer

  48. #1048
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    Quote Originally Posted by reamer41 View Post
    Sounding good!

    Id match that Thomson bar with a Thomson stem.

    Ive been running 29x3 tires on 39mm rims. Works great! Im sure 36mm will be fine.
    Thanks reamer41! Yes I do like Thomson stems Im just not a fan of their box stems looks. I had a silver one right at the beginning of the UW1 build.

    Which rims are you running?

  49. #1049
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    I'm with you on the shorter Thomson stems, hate that fugly box look, absolutely no need for it, which I find strange, as aesthetically, Thomson stuff usually has such pleasing design. Really like the look of the Hopes, but they are just too dare for me, can find stuff weighing the same and looking almost as nice for a 1/3-1/4 the price.

    Quote Originally Posted by Just J View Post
    Thanks reamer41! Yes I do like Thomson stems Im just not a fan of their box stems looks. I had a silver one right at the beginning of the UW1 build.

    Which rims are you running?
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  50. #1050
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    I'm with you on the shorter Thomson stems, hate that fugly box look, absolutely no need for it, which I find strange, as aesthetically, Thomson stuff usually has such pleasing design. Really like the look of the Hopes, but they are just too dare for me, can find stuff weighing the same and looking almost as nice for a 1/3-1/4 the price.
    Yeah Thomson make their 35mm stems with shorter reaches in their traditional and sexy elite design but the boxy 31.8mm ones just dont look right.

  51. #1051
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    Waltworks Ultimate Warrior

    Quote Originally Posted by Just J View Post
    Thanks reamer41! Yes I do like Thomson stems Im just not a fan of their box stems looks. I had a silver one right at the beginning of the UW1 build.

    Which rims are you running?
    Ive got a Carbonbicycle asym rim with 39mm internal dimension. I dont recall the exact model. Theyve been great so far. Ive had a couple hard hits and punch flats and not a nick on the rim.

    Although... I recently broke a drive side pulling spoke on the rear wheel. (Cranking up a steep slope) These rims have angled drilling, but the nipple doesnt align perfectly with the spoke. Im wondering if that misalignment causes stress where the spoke exits the nip - cause thats where my spoke broke.

    Wheel rode fine with just 31 spokes at least. So wasnt a big problem.
    In 30 years of MTBing I can say I have broken very few spokes that werent due to damage.
    --Reamer

  52. #1052
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    By the way, I applaud you for going for the factory look. Me, I love boring black bits.
    --Reamer

  53. #1053
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    Quote Originally Posted by reamer41 View Post
    By the way, I applaud you for going for the factory look. Me, I love boring black bits.
    Ha ha I just fancied a change this time, sometimes I wondered whether my orange fetish was a little overboard?!...

    Really stuck with the frame colour though, Ive had a few ideas so far but nothing is hitting me as the one.

  54. #1054
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    Quote Originally Posted by Just J View Post
    Ha ha I just fancied a change this time, sometimes I wondered whether my orange fetish was a little overboard?!...

    Really stuck with the frame colour though, Ive had a few ideas so far but nothing is hitting me as the one.
    How about........ Orange? Isn't the fork orange? Go orange except for the stainless bits and black on the components.
    Change begins by doing something different.

  55. #1055
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    Quote Originally Posted by huckleberry hound View Post
    How about........ Orange? Isn't the fork orange? Go orange except for the stainless bits and black on the components.
    I have considered this idea! I found the RAL code the Fox use on their orange forks etc but I dont know?...

  56. #1056
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    Here are the rims I used. 2.5 years in and going strong.

    http://www.carbonbicycle.cc/proshow....&tid=59&id=242
    --Reamer

  57. #1057
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    Quote Originally Posted by reamer41 View Post
    Here are the rims I used. 2.5 years in and going strong.

    http://www.carbonbicycle.cc/proshow....&tid=59&id=242
    They look good, thanks for sharing as I hadnt seen them before. Theres something to be said about manufacturers such as Carbon Bicycle and Light Bicycle etc. Apparently right up until you have issues with them but this is to be expected really and the initial savings you make kind of offset this.

    On this build were going carbon free, not that Ive had any problems with carbon parts including, wheels, bars and cranks in the past (touch wood!) but Ive recently broken a carbon frame which had annoyed me massively so I figured Id set the world to rights with this bike!! Ha ha.

  58. #1058
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    I'm curious how the alu hoops are going to feel compared to the carbon in terms of stiffness and compliance. You can still pick up good alu hoops for less than 1/2 of the cheapest carbon and you then have the added sense of security for rim strikes, that it won't just crack, might dent/ding it, but that can generally straighten back out.

    Compliance is also a big concern for me, don't know if it really should be running plus setups, but I think carbon just might be too harsh for that and it's kind of an expensive crap shoot as to if carbon hoops live up to the big claims of compliance and stiffness the manufacturers claim If you spend $80-100 on alu hoop and it's somehow too stiff or too noodly, you're not out much, but for carbon, it's gona sting, from a little to a lot if the rims aren't what you were looking for.

    Quote Originally Posted by Just J View Post
    ........On this build were going carbon free, not that Ive had any problems with carbon parts including, wheels, bars and cranks in the past (touch wood!) but Ive recently broken a carbon frame which had annoyed me massively so I figured Id set the world to rights with this bike!! Ha ha.
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  59. #1059
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    I'm curious how the alu hoops are going to feel compared to the carbon in terms of stiffness and compliance. You can still pick up good alu hoops for less than 1/2 of the cheapest carbon and you then have the added sense of security for rim strikes, that it won't just crack, might dent/ding it, but that can generally straighten back out.

    Compliance is also a big concern for me, don't know if it really should be running plus setups, but I think carbon just might be too harsh for that and it's kind of an expensive crap shoot as to if carbon hoops live up to the big claims of compliance and stiffness the manufacturers claim If you spend $80-100 on alu hoop and it's somehow too stiff or too noodly, you're not out much, but for carbon, it's gona sting, from a little to a lot if the rims aren't what you were looking for.
    I think I mentioned this when I got my 45mm LBs but the ride suffered somewhat when I started running them compared to the Arc35s. I worked through it, because, well you kind of have to when you spend carbon money on wheels, dont you?! As you say it stings! But I definitely preferred the ride of the RF rims, they felt more compliant, comfortable and again as you say there is a constant fear of cracking the carbon hoops.

    Ive invested (ok p***ed up the wall) plenty of money on carbon over the past couple of years and Im more than happy to put that behind me now and ride what I want to rather than what were told we should.

  60. #1060
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    Quote Originally Posted by Just J View Post
    I think I mentioned this when I got my 45mm LBs but the ride suffered somewhat when I started running them compared to the Arc35s. I worked through it, because, well you kind of have to when you spend carbon money on wheels, dont you?! As you say it stings! But I definitely preferred the ride of the RF rims, they felt more compliant, comfortable and again as you say there is a constant fear of cracking the carbon hoops.

    Ive invested (ok p***ed up the wall) plenty of money on carbon over the past couple of years and Im more than happy to put that behind me now and ride what I want to rather than what were told we should.
    Indeed.

    You said the frame has some stainless bits, yeah? Paint the carbon steel orange, leave the stainless bare, and do some fancy striping along the separation line.
    Salsa Timberjack SS
    -Gears give me headaches

  61. #1061
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sage of the Sage View Post
    Indeed.

    You said the frame has some stainless bits, yeah? Paint the carbon steel orange, leave the stainless bare, and do some fancy striping along the separation line.
    I think were beyond the realms of a straight powder coat if we go down that route although I do like the idea! Im also not sure if leaving the stainless stuff without a coat is a possibility although I will ask the man...

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