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  1. #401
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    According to the guys at Worldwide Cycles, theres a SRAM website that has all the forks by listed by serial number, they use the site to determine air shafts. But, it was wrong for the Pike 29+, so they called SRAM and got the correct part number.

    The revised air shafts are common between Lyric and Pike, old air Shaft are Pike specific but you need to add 10mm more to compensate for the plus.

    The new air shaft is much better.
    NB,

    I really appreciate the info.

    Sounds like I cant blame them for installing the wrong part since SRAMs site listed the wrong part.

    I am pissed that they did not return what they removed, Im guessing someone saw Lyrik/Yari printed on it and decided it could not have been from my Pike (so they give me a spare Pike 29 120 mm air shaft instead?).

    Im going to call them tomorrow to see if they still have my old air shaft.

    They upgraded travel on a Fox fork for me on my first mountain bike I bought some time ago...so I figured they could upgrade his one.
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  2. #402
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    Quote Originally Posted by jbsocal View Post
    The shaft the LBS gave me back is marked Pike 29 120 mm...wonder how that could happen?

    Also, here is the package...


    Im wondering if I should have someone else get the right part and redo it?

    Anyone know what the difference is between the part the LBS installed vs the Lyric/Yari version?

    Im not gonna have that place do anything else...F@#K!

    Thanks for posting the pic.

    I can only assume that besides installing the wrong part, they did not give me the part they took out!

    I initially gave them the serial number of the fork so they could order the correct part...
    From my experience, your bike shop is not in the wrong. The air shaft that came out of my fork on my Full Stache was also labelled as "Pike 29 120". It's to do with the fact it is a 29+ fork, not a standard 29 fork. To change my fork to 140 mm travel...we fitted a 130 mm Pike 29 shaft.
    Cheers Muz
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  3. #403
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    Quote Originally Posted by russmu66 View Post
    From my experience, your bike shop is not in the wrong. The air shaft that came out of my fork on my Full Stache was also labelled as "Pike 29 120". It's to do with the fact it is a 29+ fork, not a standard 29 fork. To change my fork to 140 mm travel...we fitted a 130 mm Pike 29 shaft.
    Cheers Muz
    Ok, thanks, so SRAM must have used different air shafts on the pike 29+ depending on manufactured date...mine must be an older model without the newer Debonair air shaft.
    19 Trek Full Stache 8 29+
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  4. #404
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    Update: the 150mm upgrade felt great on the trails today. I was lapping my local lift acces Park so I had the Mino in low. Had the pressure at about 95# and didnt bottom out, even on big hits. Ill probably back off an few #s. The bike handled great, but itll take some getting used to, as Im just not used to that much travel up front. Bike was great though.

  5. #405
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    I think the Full Stache deserves more fork, but just imagine another 10-15mm travel out back and a stiff swing arm!
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  6. #406
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    Ben, you should have gotten a Lens... It sounds more your speed.

  7. #407
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    The Lenz suspensoin has a different feel, less progressive (?), not the sort of ride I want; I had a Fatillac, same suspension.

    Most of the time I like how the F Stache rides, it's just flexy in that back end so if I hammer off jumps and do anything off angle on my landing, it get's loose. I get tire rub with a 2.6, so at my weight it's not a go big bike until the frame gets beefed up.

    Sadly there are not many choices in this genre unless I go custom, so I'm having to step down to a frame that'll only take a 2.6, but maybe someday...

    For most folks the F Stache will be fine. I certainly like the 150mm fork

    Quote Originally Posted by chelboed View Post
    Ben, you should have gotten a Lens... It sounds more your speed.
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  8. #408
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    Quote Originally Posted by chelboed View Post
    Ben, you should have gotten a Lens... It sounds more your speed.
    Of course the Lenz has a great suspension feel and the Stache rear end doesn't flex!

    But when you are a member of the bike of the month club these things get overlooked until they don't get overlooked!

  9. #409
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    Hey Rich, as I explained in my PM, I have blocked your posts.

    If you continue to be ugly, I'll flag you for the administrators.

    Try to be nice, it won't hurt you.
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  10. #410
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    Hey Rich, as I explained in my PM, I have blocked your posts.

    If you continue to be ugly, I'll flag you for the administrators.

    Try to be nice, it won't hurt you.
    If you have him blocked...how are you replying to him?
    You never cease to amaze.....
    You gonna flag me too, Captain Butthurt?

  11. #411
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    Trek Full Stache.-e31.jpg

  12. #412
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    Funny, Ive had the Mayor blocked for a while... and hes the one to reply

    The key to blocking folks is doing it before you respond back in kind and you gotta avoid readjng their blocked posts.

    I got ten or so blocked posters, about half are from the ebike forum, no surprise there.

    Still digging on the Full Stache, its the only bike Ive been riding since I bought it, probably got another month or two before the Smash arrives. Heading to Vancouver Island and BC next month.
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  13. #413
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    Quote Originally Posted by the mayor View Post
    If you have him blocked...how are you replying to him?
    You never cease to amaze.....
    You gonna flag me too, Captain Butthurt?
    On Tapatalk it says the post is blocked, but then you can tap it to reveal it.

    I have only a couple people blocked, but would occasionally read their posts anyway in case they said something useful.

    Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk

  14. #414
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    Quote Originally Posted by richwolf View Post
    Of course the Lenz has a great suspension feel and the Stache rear end doesn't flex!

    But when you are a member of the bike of the month club these things get overlooked until they don't get overlooked!
    Im on my Full Stache now for about 2 months and I cannot deny that I can feel a little bit of flex in the back, especially when its getting rough and really fast, even with 40 mm carbon rims. This little bit of flex doesnt bother or worry me, it has no influence on the capabilities of the bike, but its noticeable and this is a fact, at least concerning my bike.

    This week I will also receive my 150 mm dropper; Trek agreed to take the 125 mm back and send me a new one.

  15. #415
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    Part of the flex has to be coming from the elevated stay on the drive side. Same with the Stache hardtail and how it doesn't always play well with single speeders.

    The bottom bracket area takes some of the greatest stresses so when you take one of it's supporting members (the chainstay area) and move it up then you are reducing it's stiffness.

  16. #416
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    I was able to keep my 125mm post until the 150mm post arrived, so maybe check with your LBS and see if they can do that.

    The Trek post is not bad, gets kinda wiggly over time, probably not a post I'd buy if it didn't come with my bike.

    Quote Originally Posted by Geniusbiker View Post
    Im on my Full Stache now for about 2 months and I cannot deny that I can feel a little bit of flex in the back, especially when its getting rough and really fast, even with 40 mm carbon rims. This little bit of flex doesnt bother or worry me, it has no influence on the capabilities of the bike, but its noticeable and this is a fact, at least concerning my bike.

    This week I will also receive my 150 mm dropper; Trek agreed to take the 125 mm back and send me a new one.
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  17. #417
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    In case anyone with short legs (28 inseam) wants to run a 150 mm dropper on a medium FS:

    The One Up Components 150 mm Dropper will fit...I can use the full travel without being too high.

    I didnt think there was enough insertion depth on this frame, but the One Up 150 mm was only like 3 mm longer than the stock Bontrager 125 mm (from the bottom of collar to where the cable inserts).

    I bought the One Up shims for $10 to shorten the travel (you can adjust/shorten the travel to whatever, like 145 mm or 140 mm), but I didnt need to use it.
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  18. #418
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    I have one of those posts sitting on my bench waiting for my new build. Looks like a nice post, inexpensive, adjustable, and so far the reviews are good.

    Quote Originally Posted by jbsocal View Post
    In case anyone with short legs (28 inseam) wants to run a 150 mm dropper on a medium FS:

    The One Up Components 150 mm Dropper will fit...I can use the full travel without being too high.

    I didnt think there was enough insertion depth on this frame, but the One Up 150 mm was only like 3 mm longer than the stock Bontrager 125 mm (from the bottom of collar to where the cable inserts).

    I bought the One Up shims for $10 to shorten the travel (you can adjust/shorten the travel to whatever, like 145 mm or 140 mm), but I didnt need to use it.
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  19. #419
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    Anybody try a Yari at 140mm on their Full Stache build?

    I was going to do a Pike at 130, but I've got a Yari on my hardtail stache and I really like the stiff 35mm sanctions.

    Any thoughts apprecaited.

    Based on other posts, it sounds like the frame can handle a small increase in fork travel and still maintain climbing and all day rideablity.

  20. #420
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    Quote Originally Posted by kellyc View Post
    I was going to do a Pike at 130, but I've got a Yari on my hardtail stache and I really like the stiff 35mm sanctions.
    The Pike has 35mm stanchions.
    Safe riding,

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  21. #421
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    The Pike and Yari both have 35mm stanchions. The Yari uses the chassis from the Lyrik. Thicker, stiffer, stronger tubing. More lateral and Axial rigidity.

    Pike is lighter but not as strong.

  22. #422
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    Quote Originally Posted by chelboed View Post
    The Pike and Yari both have 35mm stanchions. The Yari uses the chassis from the Lyrik. Thicker, stiffer, stronger tubing. More lateral and Axial rigidity.

    Pike is lighter but not as strong.
    Ok thanks for the info. That makes sense as the Yari looks stouter than the Pike. I've always assumed the Pike was 34.

    Anybody have experience running the fork at 140 instead of 130 out of the gate?

  23. #423
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    I think NB is the only one who said they ran 140, everyone else went straight to 150. Imo, 150 is the way to go. 10mm is t really a lot for the effort it takes, why not just go 150 and be done?

  24. #424
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    I went straight to 150, did 25 miles on it so far so not much yet but feels really good.

  25. #425
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    Mikesee and I both ran 140, Mike started with 140, I transitioned from 130 to 140 to 150.

    I like 150 best, but I also like a slacker HTA and I'm used to having more travel.

    The Full STache has a low bb and low stack, so it benefts from a longer travel fork. The downside is higher SO.

    Quote Originally Posted by kellyc View Post
    Ok thanks for the info. That makes sense as the Yari looks stouter than the Pike. I've always assumed the Pike was 34.

    Anybody have experience running the fork at 140 instead of 130 out of the gate?
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  26. #426
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    Quote Originally Posted by steelerector View Post
    I think NB is the only one who said they ran 140, everyone else went straight to 150. Imo, 150 is the way to go. 10mm is t really a lot for the effort it takes, why not just go 150 and be done?
    Agreed. If I were starting with a bike that was complete and already had a 130, I'd feel confident enough to go 150 after riding it for a bit. Since I'm starting with the frame, I'm looking to play it a bit conservative and go with the 140.

  27. #427
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    Mikesee and I both ran 140, Mike started with 140, I transitioned from 130 to 140 to 150.

    I like 150 best, but I also like a slacker HTA and I'm used to having more travel.

    The Full STache has a low bb and low stack, so it benefts from a longer travel fork. The downside is higher SO.
    Ok good to know. I'm feeling like 140 is the sweet spot for me and where I'm riding, but, what's nice about the Yari is popping for a new 150 isn't going to break the bank.

  28. #428
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    Darn. There is a great deal on one around here. I rented one and had this problem. Was hoping carbon wheels with 32 spokes would solve it. Sounds like not gonna work. Really want a 29+ all arounder. Who builds a bike like this without sorting the flex? I mean this bike is not built around light weight concerns. Stupid. So much sand where I live. Hmm back to the drawing board. Thanks for the post.

  29. #429
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    Id get a Lenz if I was still in the market for 3 tires. Walt makes a good frame too, he is full custom, problem is these two builders get as much for a frame/shock as you spend on a Full Stache.

    The better choice would be for Trek to admit they built a rubber band, revise the frame, and sell a ton of them! Mike warned me, but Im stubborn.

    Quote Originally Posted by xophere View Post
    Darn. There is a great deal on one around here. I rented one and had this problem. Was hoping carbon wheels with 32 spokes would solve it. Sounds like not gonna work. Really want a 29+ all arounder. Who builds a bike like this without sorting the flex? I mean this bike is not built around light weight concerns. Stupid. So much sand where I live. Hmm back to the drawing board. Thanks for the post.
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  30. #430
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    Ben and Xophere - about how much do you guys weigh? I rented a Full Stache last week on vacation and didn't have any noticeable flex/rub from the back end of the bike. I weigh around 170 out of the shower so probably 180-185 ready-to-ride.

    I really loved the bike and would probably have one on order were it not for the PFBB and knock-block headset. Let's hope the second generation has a threaded BB and a curved down tube!

  31. #431
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    How much of a problem is this "rubber band" rear end? Should I worry about it? I weigh around 198lbs fully equipped and I like to ride aggressively to some degree.

    I have Full Stache on pre-order for end of summer delivery but this talks about flex are very much worrying now

  32. #432
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    I'm 200# nakid.

    I honestly didn't notice the flex at first, then I got a little chain buzz, then as I pushed harded and got more vertical I started getting chainstay rub.

    It's a great bike, maybe flex is less of an issue because you're lighter...

    As for the Knockblock, it's not that big of a deal, not that I like it, but it doesn't hurt my riding.

    As for threaded bb or press fit, I's not as big of a deal as osme folks think, I get no noise from mine. You can get a threaded bb for a press fit, only costs another $25-50.

    Quote Originally Posted by jnroyal View Post
    Ben and Xophere - about how much do you guys weigh? I rented a Full Stache last week on vacation and didn't have any noticeable flex/rub from the back end of the bike. I weigh around 170 out of the shower so probably 180-185 ready-to-ride.

    I really loved the bike and would probably have one on order were it not for the PFBB and knock-block headset. Let's hope the second generation has a threaded BB and a curved down tube!
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  33. #433
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    I'm 200# nakid.

    I honestly didn't notice the flex at first, then I got a little chain buzz, then as I pushed harded and got more vertical I started getting chainstay rub.

    It's a great bike, maybe flex is less of an issue because you're lighter...

    As for the Knockblock, it's not that big of a deal, not that I like it, but it doesn't hurt my riding.

    As for threaded bb or press fit, I's not as big of a deal as osme folks think, I get no noise from mine. You can get a threaded bb for a press fit, only costs another $25-50.
    Maybe that's because you run 2.8" tires?

  34. #434
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    Quote Originally Posted by jnroyal View Post
    I really loved the bike and would probably have one on order were it not for the PFBB and knock-block headset. Let's hope the second generation has a threaded BB and a curved down tube!
    I really doubt Trek will have threaded BB in next year. Anyway, PF can be replaced, as far as I remember Wheels MFG produces various pressfit to threaded conversion BB.

  35. #435
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    Oh snap! I see your reasoning: Because everything other than the frame are stiffer, it makes the frame stiffness more pronounced

    When I swapped to narrower tires (2.6/2.8), the tire rub mostly disappeared except when I land akward off a drop.

    All flexiness aside, it's a unique bike that has no peer. Take it with it's faults or break open the piggy bank and get a Lenz or Waltworks.

    If I absolutely had to have 3" tires, it'd be a tough call; stay with the FS Stache or get a Lenz. I like Lenz quite a lot, but the Stache suspension rides better. Never rode a Waltworks, but Mikee likes it

    Quote Originally Posted by Mebaru View Post
    Maybe that's because you run 2.8" tires?
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  36. #436
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    All flexiness aside, it's a unique bike that has no peer. Take it with it's faults or broke open the piggy bank and get a Lenz or Waltworks.

    If I absolutely had to have 3" tires, it'd be a tough call, stay with the FS Stache or get a Lenz. I like Lenz quite a lot, but the Stache suspension rides better. Never rode a Waltworks, but Mikee likes it
    Very good point, I agree. I can't afford Lenz or Walt Works, especially when getting those here overseas and paying all taxes will add so much to the cost. Maybe some other day, when I am out of my misery

  37. #437
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    What's your misery?

    You could also buy a frame and build one up.

    I'll be selling mine once my Smash is ready, but overseas shipping is $$

    I don't think anyone has been disappointed by the Full Stache. I'm "kinda" picky, there's no bike in the history of the world that satisfied all of my wants

    It's a nice package for the price.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mebaru View Post
    Very good point, I agree. I can't afford Lenz or Walt Works, especially when getting those here overseas and paying all taxes will add so much to the cost. Maybe some other day, when I am out of my misery
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  38. #438
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    I'm about Ben's size and my PF92 on the Stache HT had been noise free, trouble free for a year now. I'd rather have threaded, but I'm fine with it.

  39. #439
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben
    You could also buy a frame and build one up.
    Buying a frame was my first idea. But for some reason Trek doesn't supply frames here yet. I was told they will be available late autumn.

    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben
    I'll be selling mine once my Smash is ready, but overseas shipping is $$
    Well, I need 17.5" frame but yours is 19.5" as far as I remember.

  40. #440
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    Quote Originally Posted by chelboed View Post
    I'm about Ben's size and my PF92 on the Stache HT had been noise free, trouble free for a year now. I'd rather have threaded, but I'm fine with it.
    Same here, trouble free year on Farley with PF121 and I ride a lot. PressFit BBs are often demonized a little bit more than they are in reality.

  41. #441
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mebaru View Post
    Same here, trouble free year on Farley with PF121 and I ride a lot. PressFit BBs are often demonized a little bit more than they are in reality.
    Maybe they've gotten better too. I know previous bikes that had PF BB's would always grind when standing to pedal, but my current bike doesn't.

  42. #442
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    Yup, size large.

    The complete is not a bad deal, but tariffs, tax, and shipping would be more than for a frame.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mebaru View Post
    Buying a frame was my first idea. But for some reason Trek doesn't supply frames here yet. I was told they will be available late autumn.


    Well, I need 17.5" frame but yours is 19.5" as far as I remember.
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    I built my Full Stache frameset up w Enve M735's on Onyx hubs and 3" XR4's, 140mm Pike, Saints w 203/180mm rotors, Eagle GX w Twister, and thread-together PF BB shell.

    I'm a 160lb XC rider and have noticed some flex in the back through hard corners, but certainly nothing which would have stopped me from buying the bike. I dunno if it was the 140mm, but it feels really slack coming from a Niner Rip 9 (and also much closer to the ground, glad I got alloy cranks!), so I immediately flipped the link from low to high, which makes it much more to my liking, though I need to do some adjusting, as I still feel like I'm leaning on the bars pretty hard. It rolls like a frickin' freight train and I certainly wouldn't spec lesser brakes than I did.

    I had built 29+ wheels for my hardtail fatbike in the summer and fell in love - 29+ is great on a hardtail, as the tires take the bite off the terrain, but you get to keep all the efficiency of the frame - I felt like I was rolling through lightly rooted trails faster than ever. This? between the weight of the bike and losing the energy from both the suspension and the rolling resistance, it feels kinda like a triple whammy. Now, that said, despite being a lot of work, it's super fun to ride, and, since I'm not racing anymore, I absolutely love it as my day to day mountain bike. It's relaxing - you can pick and choose lines if you want to, or just yell screw it and roll right through the damn middle! I've also never had a bike which climbs this well - the suspension keeps those giant gnarly XR4's glued to the ground and I feel like there's almost nothing out there which could do a better job on technical ascents (as long as you have the muscle). So, in the end, I guess I would say it is what it is, and, given the lack of alternatives, I'm really happy Trek took a chance and made this.

  44. #444
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    Good review... I'm jealous

  45. #445
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    I saw this bike at the shop when I bought my Stache 7 a few weeks ago and it was definitely a serious bike but between all this flex talk and the hideous paint on the swing arm it's not working for me. I understand there can definitely be first generation bike bugs to work out and am quite sure Trek can and will do just that.

  46. #446
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    The question I have is a carbon rear wheel (say a Bontrager Line 40 Pro) or a stiffer wheel that what comes stock going to make a noticeable difference? Ive had the full stache for a couple of months now and this is my first full sus. Im coming off a ROS 9, which I rode for 5 years and broke. I go through cheap hubs so Im waiting for the stock hub to break. Im a six footer and 190ish geared up. Love the bike so far but do notice the soft rear end. Just curious if I would notice an improvement with a stiffer rear wheel? Mikesee, since youve ridden the bike and are an professional wheel builder I would love to hear your thoughts.

  47. #447
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    Quote Originally Posted by 71 10-7 View Post
    Love the bike so far but do notice the soft rear end. Just curious if I would notice an improvement with a stiffer rear wheel? Mikesee, since youve ridden the bike and are an professional wheel builder I would love to hear your thoughts.

    Would need to know what your current wheel specifics are, as well as which tire, run at what pressure, to be able to guess at whether what you're feeling is wheel or frame related. And it'd be just that -- a guess. My pre-guess is that in this case you're noticing the frame, not the wheel. But I could be wrong.

  48. #448
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    Stock Droc 40, XR2 currently but same feeling when the XR4 was mounted. 14 to 16 psi. I do believe this is frame related per your guess. Other reviews have mentioned switching to a stiffer carbon wheel and that has helped but this doesnt make a lot of sense to me. I appreciate any feedback!

  49. #449
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    Quote Originally Posted by 71 10-7 View Post
    The question I have is a carbon rear wheel (say a Bontrager Line 40 Pro) or a stiffer wheel that what comes stock going to make a noticeable difference? Ive had the full stache for a couple of months now and this is my first full sus. Im coming off a ROS 9, which I rode for 5 years and broke. I go through cheap hubs so Im waiting for the stock hub to break. Im a six footer and 190ish geared up. Love the bike so far but do notice the soft rear end. Just curious if I would notice an improvement with a stiffer rear wheel? Mikesee, since youve ridden the bike and are an professional wheel builder I would love to hear your thoughts.
    Im also on 40 mm carbon rims. The little flex in the back is still noticeable. So I also think that it comes from the construction of the back. I long ago have getting used to this little bit of movement in the back. I doesnt bother me at all an it has no negative influence on my riding or the capabilities of the bike. This little bit of flex should not be overvalued!

    In the meantime I have changed from the Shimano XT breaks to the Magura MT7 breaks. The yellow color on the break levers and the rings of the pistons matches very well with the green in the back. Also, was able to purchase one of the last available examples of a SQ-Lab 611 saddle in the limited Tibor Simai edition, that has the same yellow like the breaks. Now the bike is perfect!

  50. #450
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    I hear you on the flex, it doesnt seem to make a huge difference and by the time I notice it Im through the terrain that caused it. No doubt this bike is under braked and this is high on the priority list for upgrades. I recently cleaned the pads and rotor on the front then completed the bed in per sram procedure, this has helped but I would still like to see more power. Thinking about saints or the 4 pot xts for the front.

  51. #451
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    Quote Originally Posted by Geniusbiker View Post
    In the meantime I have changed from the Shimano XT breaks to the Magura MT7 breaks. The yellow color on the break levers and the rings of the pistons matches very well with the green in the back. Also, was able to purchase one of the last available examples of a SQ-Lab 611 saddle in the limited Tibor Simai edition, that has the same yellow like the breaks. Now the bike is perfect!
    You seem to be very serious about the colors That SQ Lab carbon Tibor Simai saddle isn't cheap to say the least...

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