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Thread: Surly Krampus

  1. #2201
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    Re: Surly Krampus

    Quote Originally Posted by raymondy View Post
    you must be a giant.
    6'7 230lbs.... not too big

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  2. #2202
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    Quote Originally Posted by fotu View Post
    So, has anyone pedaled one of these things, or are these basically downhill bikes?
    There's a fella Ive ridden with a couple times that has one. First ride was very technical rock crawling and the second time more traditional xc riding with lots of climbing. He had no problem with either.

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  3. #2203
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeffw-13 View Post
    There's a fella Ive ridden with a couple times that has one. First ride was very technical rock crawling and the second time more traditional xc riding with lots of climbing. He had no problem with either.
    Not suggesting that someone would encounter problems, but I feel like 2.3 nevegals are pain to drag around, especially on the back. So I can only imagine that 3 inch honkers are heavy and slow. But that's why I am asking, is this a bike that people hammer on and shred twisty rolly single track or is it something you winch yourself around on in a little gear?

  4. #2204
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    Quote Originally Posted by fotu View Post
    Not suggesting that someone would encounter problems, but I feel like 2.3 nevegals are pain to drag around, especially on the back. So I can only imagine that 3 inch honkers are heavy and slow. But that's why I am asking, is this a bike that people hammer on and shred twisty rolly single track or is it something you winch yourself around on in a little gear?
    Tire size and rolling resistance are related, but they're not the same thing. I feel like my Krampus with RH-Knards rolls WAY faster than my SB-95 with Minions and carbon rims. It might even roll faster than the 2.4 Ardents I had on there before. The knobs are small enough and close enough together that they don't slow you down too much.

    Getting the wheels rolling takes a little more energy because the rims are so heavy, but once you've moving it goes and goes and goes. This is definitely a shred twisty singletrack kind of bike.
    The correct number of bikes one should own is N+1, where N is the number of bikes currently owned.

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    im trying to figure out the same thing. i will say that i think fatter tires can roll better on bumpy terrain than smaller lighter tires, absorbing and rolling over rocks and stuff rather than bouncing. definitely felt this on my commuter going from 25c to 35c (probably closer to 40c)

    the tire looks giant compared to the 25, and while the 25 is faster on super smooth surfaces, any not so perfect roads or bumpier stuff the 35's are faster for sure.

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    ^^sweet! im as far as it gets from an xc racer, but id love to race xc on one of these if i get one just for the hell of it.

  7. #2207
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    Quote Originally Posted by fotu View Post
    Not suggesting that someone would encounter problems, but I feel like 2.3 nevegals are pain to drag around, especially on the back. So I can only imagine that 3 inch honkers are heavy and slow. But that's why I am asking, is this a bike that people hammer on and shred twisty rolly single track or is it something you winch yourself around on in a little gear?
    I feel that the Krampus rolls way faster than anything with a Nevegal in the rear. Especially sticky rubber Neves. There are definitely times when you'll notice the heft of the Krampus (mine, in stock form, is over 33lb), but it will always make you smile. It really is a fun bike.

  8. #2208
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    Quote Originally Posted by JYB View Post
    I feel that the Krampus rolls way faster than anything with a Nevegal in the rear. Especially sticky rubber Neves. There are definitely times when you'll notice the heft of the Krampus (mine, in stock form, is over 33lb), but it will always make you smile. It really is a fun bike.
    I agree completely, mine is set up SS, it's 26lbs now and I've got a number of Strava KOM's on it on some of the flat river trails around here. It makes my good mountain bike feel sketchy now

  9. #2209
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    Thats awesome, makes me want one of these so much more, its like a screw off hooligan bike that can still haul ass. pretty cool.

  10. #2210
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    Quote Originally Posted by santacruzer View Post
    I agree completely, mine is set up SS, it's 26lbs now and I've got a number of Strava KOM's on it on some of the flat river trails around here. It makes my good mountain bike feel sketchy now
    Nice! I can imagine that shedding some weight off my stock Krampus would up the grin factor even more. It would be easy to shed 7+lbs, depending on how much $$$ one is willing to spend.

  11. #2211
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    Carver XC470 for krampus

    I just ordered a Carver xc470 for my krampus and was just curious if anyone has any input on this. I could not find any reviews for it so I just said the hell with it and bought it.
    Figured I would bring it up and when I recieve it and install. I will post some pictures and a review. For now I'll post a general picture of my bike before upgrade.
    Current upgrades so far are just X-9 shifter and derailleur, thomson elite seatpost, ea70 bar.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Surly Krampus-photo%5B1%5D.jpg  

    Last edited by USMCbiker; 01-24-2014 at 05:27 PM. Reason: misspelling

  12. #2212
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    Quote Originally Posted by appleSSeed View Post
    You can check out some pics of my purple people eater at Reader?s Ride(s) ? White Mike?s Violet Krampus | FAT-BIKE.COM


    [URL=http://s6.photobucket.com/user/detail/media/1FD77C97-3A24-43DC-905C-4A69E5EA6C2F_zpsz6y2efmh.jpg.html]
    Hi!

    Just a question from Belgium for my further Krampus :

    Have you ever ride a Surly Krampus (or other 29+) with Surly Knard on Velocity Dually 29 wheels? Are these rims wide enough?

    Thx!

    Jos

  13. #2213
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    Quote Originally Posted by jos_2001 View Post
    Are these rims wide enough?
    Velocity Dually are 45mm wide...Rabbit Holes are 50mm wide...no problem running either one with Knards.

    Surly has stated they are okay with anything over 35mm and I've used Knards with narrower rims than that for several months.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
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  14. #2214
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    Here's another Krampus-related question. When building Rabbit Holes, what spoke tension should I shoot for? Does anyone know the max recommended spoke tension for these rims?

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    Quote Originally Posted by JYB View Post
    Here's another Krampus-related question. When building Rabbit Holes, what spoke tension should I shoot for? Does anyone know the max recommended spoke tension for these rims?
    I laced mine to a high tension using brass hex head nipples. Between the tension and spoke prep, if you try to adjust spoke tension with a regular spoke wrench, it just breaks off the tops of the nipples. These rims are beasts and everything has held up for a year now including totally wearing out a set of knards, so many hard miles during that time. I don't have a tensiometer at home, so I can't tell you any numbers unfortunately.

    There's a debate out there about whether there are any advantages to building wheels at relatively high tensions. In my experience, for wheels with strong rims, high tension makes for a much stiffer wheel. This is because the wheel can deform more before spokes become entirely unloaded.

  16. #2216
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    We've all discussed spoke tension further back in this thread. I also run a higher spoke tension on my Rabbit Holes, but not so much that I feel it to be excessive. I don't have a tension meter at home, either, but you learn to feel what works and what doesn't. You run the risk of cracking the rim around the spoke nipple with extremely high tensions, especially on a wide, flat rim like this. I'd build them up a little tighter than what you usually build, if you build wheels, or ask your lbs (or whoever is building them) to add a little tension. It won't hurt anything and will result in a stronger, better-riding wheel. I've been very impressed with my wheelset for the past year. It's stayed very true, despite some hard hits, rocks contacting rim and regular riding.

  17. #2217
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    thank you vikb.
    I'm a little bit afraid of a loss oh the "fat effect" with this kind of rim. Can I ride with a lower tire pressure with the velocity? As low as a rabbit hole?

    thx

  18. #2218
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    Quote Originally Posted by jos_2001 View Post
    thank you vikb.
    I'm a little bit afraid of a loss oh the "fat effect" with this kind of rim. Can I ride with a lower tire pressure with the velocity? As low as a rabbit hole?

    thx
    If not the same pressure it will be very close.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
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  19. #2219
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    For those of you who've played the mobile game "Giant Boulder of Death," did you know that you eventually unlock a Krampus?



    By the way, that's a child he's carrying on his back

  20. #2220
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    thank you vikb

  21. #2221
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    Speaking of Dually rims, here's some on White Rim in January:


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    ... and if we just ...

    Quote Originally Posted by USMCbiker View Post
    I just ordered a Carver xc470 for my krampus and was just curious if anyone has any input on this. I could not find any reviews for it so I just said the hell with it and bought it.
    Figured I would bring it up and when I recieve it and install. I will post some pictures and a review. For now I'll post a general picture of my bike before upgrade.
    Current upgrades so far are just X-9 shifter and derailleur, thomson elite seatpost, ea70 bar.
    Just got the CK inset 7 and the Carver xc470 installed tonight. looks pretty good. The little rubber hair things do touch the side of the fork arms but just barely, test road it around the block a few times at 12 psi tried to see if I could get any rub but notta, that doesnt mean it wont happen when I get it on a single track. It did change my head tube angle to 68.5 (stock is 69.5) but... my phone app isnt the best. Hoping to test ride it soon if it ever gets above 0 degrees here. Surly Krampus-wp_20140131_003.jpgSurly Krampus-wp_20140131_004.jpgSurly Krampus-wp_20140131_009.jpg

  23. #2223
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    Brake adapters for 180mm rotors

    I am going to order a Krampus and want to order 180mm rotors at the same time, can someone tell me what brake adapters are needed?

    Thanks
    Go buy a Pizza

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    Quote Originally Posted by cocksmith View Post
    I am going to order a Krampus and want to order 180mm rotors at the same time, can someone tell me what brake adapters are needed?

    Thanks
    Order it through your LBS. They should match prices on the bike and they'll probably have the adaptor you need in stock.

  25. #2225
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    Quote Originally Posted by cocksmith View Post
    I am going to order a Krampus and want to order 180mm rotors at the same time, can someone tell me what brake adapters are needed?

    Thanks
    is this a trick question?
    "Knowledge is good." ~ Emil Faber

  26. #2226
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    Quote Originally Posted by cocksmith View Post
    I am going to order a Krampus and want to order 180mm rotors at the same time, can someone tell me what brake adapters are needed?
    Use the ISO 51mm adapters, not the post-mount adapters, universal sells 'em, pick the right size or ask on the chat line:
    Universal Cycles -- Avid Disc Brake Adapter

  27. #2227
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    Quote Originally Posted by pursuiter View Post
    Use the ISO 51mm adapters, not the post-mount adapters, universal sells 'em, pick the right size or ask on the chat line:
    Universal Cycles -- Avid Disc Brake Adapter
    Not all calipers use the same size mount, so have your brake caliper picked out first/same time as the mount.

  28. #2228
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    Quote Originally Posted by USMCbiker View Post
    Just got the CK inset 7 and the Carver xc470 installed tonight. looks pretty good. The little rubber hair things do touch the side of the fork arms but just barely, test road it around the block a few times at 12 psi tried to see if I could get any rub but notta, that doesnt mean it wont happen when I get it on a single track. It did change my head tube angle to 68.5 (stock is 69.5) but... my phone app isnt the best. Hoping to test ride it soon if it ever gets above 0 degrees here.
    USMCbiker - Good call on the inset 7 and the xc470 -- I've been running both on my Krampus since June and after 600+ miles, have nothing but good things to say about both. Check out posts #1463 and #1471 in this thread for pix and insights.

    Couple other thoughts on the fork: 1) You will likely get a little rub on the inner legs. I've never felt it while riding, but when I look at the inside of my fork 600 miles later, the rub marks are definitely there. 2) I'm surprised that it raked out your head tube angle, because the xc470 has a 13mm shorter axle to crown than the stock Krampus fork. 470mm vs. 483mm. Overall, I'll be curious to hear your impressions, because I never rode my bike with the stock fork (it's still wrapped in plastic in my garage), so I have no comparison. All my 29ers have been rigid, however (two steel forks and one Niner carbon), and I can say that the Carver on the Krampus feels great.

    Let us know how it goes.

  29. #2229
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    Quote Originally Posted by USMCbiker View Post
    Just got the... Carver xc470 installed tonight. looks pretty good. The little rubber hair things do touch the side of the fork arms but just barely, test road it around the block a few times at 12 psi tried to see if I could get any rub but notta, that doesnt mean it wont happen when I get it on a single track. ]
    nice build.

    fwiw to those considering a carbon fork on the krampus or with knards, the foundry whisky 9 fork also fits the knard with room to spare for deflection.

    "Knowledge is good." ~ Emil Faber

  30. #2230
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    Which carbon fork(s) are closest in geometry to the stock Krampus fork? Any others to mention?

  31. #2231
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    Surly Krampus

    I'm very happy with my White Brothers Rock Solid, in 490mm. I prefer the handing to stock. Plenty of clearance with RH + Knard.

  32. #2232
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    My new to me XL Krampus:



    Yes, the front brake hose is too long. No, I probably won't change it anytime soon. I tried to leave it a bit long to work with my H bars later on, but it looks like I was too conservative in my cutting.

    I have a few more pictures and details here.

  33. #2233
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    Quote Originally Posted by seat_boy View Post
    My new to me XL Krampus:

    Yes, the front brake hose is too long. No, I probably won't change it anytime soon. I tried to leave it a bit long to work with my H bars later on, but it looks like I was too conservative in my cutting.
    try routing it around the right side of the head tube.
    "Knowledge is good." ~ Emil Faber

  34. #2234
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    just finished building mine today, and took it out for a ride. LOVED IT! believe i've found a frame builder that will put an s&s coupler on the seatstay so i can run it ss with a belt drive. as it sits it will convert to ss in about 10 minutes.

    build:
    king hubs/headset (building a surly mtn fixed rabbit hole wheel soon)
    dt swiss ratcheting skewers
    xx1 crank with 36t mrp bling ring
    xo brakes 180/160
    xo rear der with xx shifter
    sram 1070 cassette (soon to be replaced with a shimano m771 12-36 (better spread) fitted with a one-up components 42t big cog)
    cirrus saddle
    bonty carbon post (soon to be replaced with either a moots or thomson - which ever i locate in my piles-o-stuff first)
    on-one mary bars (about to be replaced with origin ul-8 carbon mtn space bars - virtually the same bar in carbon and 31.8)
    oury grips
    custom fab brake hose mount to rear fender hole
    whiskey no. 9 carbon mtb fork coming soon

    tubeless conversion was quick and easy. the 1.88" wide gorilla tape fits the inside of the rabbit hole like it was custom made for it! only one wrap was needed and it seated and held DRY. sealant added later through stem.

    Surly Krampus-krampus-001.jpg

    Surly Krampus-krampus-002.jpg

    Surly Krampus-krampus-003.jpg

    Surly Krampus-krampus-004.jpg

    Surly Krampus-krampus-005.jpg

    Surly Krampus-krampus-012.jpg
    "Knowledge is good." ~ Emil Faber

  35. #2235
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    Surly Krampus

    Nice build. Would like to see a shot of the custom brake line holder. Also, as a side note, I've attempted to contact Origin 8 in both Czech Repub. and the US and no one responds. I was very interested in the same bar you're ordering. Enjoy!


    Sent from my iPhone and only partially tracked by the NSA.

  36. #2236
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1 Speed View Post
    Nice build. Would like to see a shot of the custom brake line holder. Also, as a side note, I've attempted to contact Origin 8 in both Czech Repub. and the US and no one responds. I was very interested in the same bar you're ordering. Enjoy!


    Sent from my iPhone and only partially tracked by the NSA.
    thanks. i'll post up some pics later today of the line holder.

    if you'd like some assistance getting the bar PM me and we can work something out.
    "Knowledge is good." ~ Emil Faber

  37. #2237
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    It looks as you have some extra spacers on your brake caliper mounts? It also looks like you do not have the spacers in your drop out for when you run a rear mech. If you dont run those spacers in the drop out your rear brake will not line up right and will rub the rotor in weird spots. This happened to me with my Krampus when I get it last year the first thing I did when building the bike was slide the rear wheel all the way forward in the drop out. You shifting will be better too.

  38. #2238
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    Quote Originally Posted by TSOXBHK View Post
    It looks as you have some extra spacers on your brake caliper mounts? It also looks like you do not have the spacers in your drop out for when you run a rear mech. If you dont run those spacers in the drop out your rear brake will not line up right and will rub the rotor in weird spots. This happened to me with my Krampus when I get it last year the first thing I did when building the bike was slide the rear wheel all the way forward in the drop out. You shifting will be better too.
    good eye, bro! indeed i do.

    however, the spacers have absolutely nothing to do with using or not using the monkey nuts. it's because the brake adapter i used didn't allow the caliper to clear the rotor irrespective of it's position and are required whether running the nuts or not. the monkey nuts don't facilitate brake alignment but rather (as you mentioned) merely position the wheel for running a rear der. i also like to set up the brake so the wheel can be slid in and out without adjusting the caliper, for which the spacers also help. it means i lose a minor mount of pad contact but i've been doing this on karate monkeys and other bikes with track-ends/discs for many, many years with no noticeable loss in braking performance.

    having owned many karate monkeys (i'm on my 5th) and running them both geared and ss/fixed i've found that the better the shifty bits are the less of an improvement is gained using the m.n., but i'm certainly not discounting that ymmv. it shifted perfectly and buttah schmoove with the wheel all the way forward. so while i cut the chain to use with the nuts i also wanted to run it without to see if there was any appreciable difference in handling/climbing between the roughly 1/2" different wheelbases. after yesterday's ride they were popped in and i will be heading out to the trails to log some research time shortly! though to be honest, i don't like how little clearance the tyre has without them so they'll probably stay simply for that reason alone.

    such capability is just another of the many facets that makes surly bikes so versatile and uniquely customer customizable.

    kramp on!
    "Knowledge is good." ~ Emil Faber

  39. #2239
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    Well, duh.

    Much better now, thanks!

    Quote Originally Posted by monogod View Post
    try routing it around the right side of the head tube.

  40. #2240
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1 Speed View Post
    Would like to see a shot of the custom brake line holder.
    as requested...

    Surly Krampus-krampus-brake-line-001.jpg

    Surly Krampus-krampus-brake-line-002.jpg

    Surly Krampus-krampus-brake-line-003.jpg
    "Knowledge is good." ~ Emil Faber

  41. #2241
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    Surly Krampus

    I am fairly confident my LBS fawked up my cable routing after seeing all these pics. One day I'll have to re-route it. Is it hard to do? I've never messed with cables...

  42. #2242
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gouda Cheez View Post
    I am fairly confident my LBS fawked up my cable routing after seeing all these pics. One day I'll have to re-route it. Is it hard to do? I've never messed with cables...
    Not difficult at all. If you've got BB7s, you can pop the cable out without removing the caliper or lever (which requires removing a grip also) and also without using any tools. Just align the barrel adjuster so that the openings all line up with the lever, pull your housing outward and cable down through the opening and boom, its out. Just reverse to install. You could re-route the front cable in less than a minute, even if you had to cut/replace a zip tie. If you have hydros it's really no different. Take off the lever or caliper, re-route and install everything again. If you take off your caliper, don't mess with the caliper adjustment, just pop off the bolts holding the caliper bracket, then you won't have to make any adjustments or changes when putting it all back together..again, only a couple minute job, you'll just need tools if you go this route.

  43. #2243
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    Quote Originally Posted by monogod View Post
    as requested...

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I tried something like that when I first got my Krampus, but the angle the cable was at greatly changed how smooth the front cable moved, so I left it stock. Your clamp makes no difference with hydro's, but I'd be curious to see what a clamp just a little longer to reduce that angle would do for cable actuated brakes. My housing quickly gets a groove worn into it by rubbing my lower headset cup, and the headset cup has all of the finish worn off where the cable rubs. I typically wear out my housing and replace it before any issues occur, but it would be nice to avoid this.

  44. #2244
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    Surly Krampus

    Quote Originally Posted by sasquatch rides a SS View Post
    Not difficult at all. If you've got BB7s, you can pop the cable out without removing the caliper or lever (which requires removing a grip also) and also without using any tools. Just align the barrel adjuster so that the openings all line up with the lever, pull your housing outward and cable down through the opening and boom, its out. Just reverse to install. You could re-route the front cable in less than a minute, even if you had to cut/replace a zip tie. If you have hydros it's really no different. Take off the lever or caliper, re-route and install everything again. If you take off your caliper, don't mess with the caliper adjustment, just pop off the bolts holding the caliper bracket, then you won't have to make any adjustments or changes when putting it all back together..again, only a couple minute job, you'll just need tools if you go this route.
    Thanks I'll give it a whirl.

  45. #2245
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    Quote Originally Posted by sasquatch rides a SS View Post
    I tried something like that when I first got my Krampus, but the angle the cable was at greatly changed how smooth the front cable moved, so I left it stock. Your clamp makes no difference with hydro's, but I'd be curious to see what a clamp just a little longer to reduce that angle would do for cable actuated brakes. My housing quickly gets a groove worn into it by rubbing my lower headset cup, and the headset cup has all of the finish worn off where the cable rubs. I typically wear out my housing and replace it before any issues occur, but it would be nice to avoid this.
    imho, if they're going to route the cable behind the fork they either need to provide a bolt-on clamp or another braze-on cable saddle mounted horizontally on the rear of the fork where mine is placed. surly usually nails it on their design, but this is a glaring faux-pas.

    my remedy: a disc rotor spacer, cage bolt, nyloc nut, 2 washers, and a small piece of rack mount rubber strap to keep the washer from marring the fork.

    shimano calls them a "rotor plate".



    my cable flows very well, no sharp bends or kinks, and i think it would work well with a cable brake. if you want, i can post more shots of how it's routed and flows so you can get an idea.

    when setting it up i first flattened the lip with a pair of vise-grips. then i closed the rotor plate around a small screwdriver and tightened it down first, THEN ran the cable through it. this way it doesn't cut into, crimp, or kink the housing during shaping the rotor plate.

    seems to hold well after a couple of rides. but if you need something wider perhaps you could try some very thin gauge metal plumber's tape. i may actually go this direction in future.

    "Knowledge is good." ~ Emil Faber

  46. #2246
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    I might look into making another bracket that's a little longer, and possibly at an angle. It didn't bind my cable, but I felt a noticeably different cable feel on my front brake. I went as far as increasing the spring tension on my front BB7 a bit to neutralize the effect, but in the end I just couldn't get my lever feels close enough for me to enjoy. I do agree with you that they either need to add another braze-on cable guide to the fork or move the existing one up closer to the crown to route the cable away from the head tube.

  47. #2247
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    another possible solution would be to use one of these stick-on guides slightly inside of the fork leg rather than the braze-on guide to route the cable through the fork legs under the crown. then you could do a mount that would hold the cable under the steer tube at a 45 degree angle - which would minimize kinks/binding.

    just spit-balling...

    Surly Krampus-200.jpg
    "Knowledge is good." ~ Emil Faber

  48. #2248
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    Quote Originally Posted by monogod View Post
    imho, if they're going to route the cable behind the fork they either need to provide a bolt-on clamp or another braze-on cable saddle mounted horizontally on the rear of the fork where mine is placed. surly usually nails it on their design, but this is a glaring faux-pas.


    Sorry I must be missing it, but what's the issue with the stock front brake hose routing/mounts?

    BTW - Surly also forgot the Rohloff cable guides!
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  49. #2249
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    Quote Originally Posted by vikb View Post
    Sorry I must be missing it, but what's the issue with the stock front brake hose routing/mounts?
    1. rubs on the lower headset cup/headtube (depending on ec or ic headset).
    2. flops around too much

    with my clamp, neither of these occur.
    "Knowledge is good." ~ Emil Faber

  50. #2250
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    Quote Originally Posted by monogod View Post
    1. rubs on the lower headset cup/headtube (depending on ec or ic headset).
    2. flops around too much

    with my clamp, neither of these occur.
    Interesting. Not a detail that caught my attention during my Krampus build or riding.

    Glad you found a way to solve the issue on your bike...
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

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