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Thread: Surly Krampus

  1. #1851
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vincentg View Post
    I have a nearly new Krampus with the large frame. I'd rather have a medium or even a small. Anyone interested in swapping frames? I'm in Colorado.
    Quote Originally Posted by ScaryJerry View Post
    vikb?
    Just read these.

    If you were in town I'd probably suggest getting a 24 of beer and doing the swap one weekend.

    I'm just trying to wrap my head around the effort to unbuild/rebuild my bike and cost to get the large. My frame is not new either. It has no "damage", but it has seen action and there is some expected wear and tear. Frame shipping will probably cost us each $75-$100 and I wouldn't be willing to pay extra for a "new" frame. beyond shipping costs from me to you.

    I'm definitely intrigued...still thinking. Feel free to PM me to discuss.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
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  2. #1852
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    Quote Originally Posted by sasquatch rides a SS View Post
    What rotors are you running?

    The reason I ask is because I was using 180mm F/R SLX centerlock rotors when I was having all my rubbing issues. I thought nothing of it and kept riding as I have been. I recently switched to 200mm/180mm F/R HS1 rotors with centerlock adapters and haven't had any rubbing issues yet (fingers crossed)! I'm curious if the rotors have anything to do with it. While the centerlock rotors stayed 100% true all the time, they were noising as hell and rubbed with frame flex. Avid rotors never seem to stay true, but are much quieter in my experience and haven't had any sort of rubbing issues...even with me trying to make it rub.
    Bringing back up this subject, is anybody having rotor rub issues with frame flex? I'm beginning to get some serious rub while mashing that's on my rear wheel only, and it's driving me nuts. I've heard it could partially be attributed to mechanical disc brakes. I had similar noise years ago on a different bike with BB5s and it went away when I got Elixirs. I had planned to get hydro's eventually...wondering if that will help with anything. Input? Anybody else's rotors start making noise while mashing up a hill?

  3. #1853
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    I am running BB7's (180mm) in the rear and no issues at all. Could there possibly be some play in the hub? I had rubbing while mashing with the same brakes on my Ti Jones with an XT hub and the issue went away when I adjusted the cones.

  4. #1854
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    Nope, everything on the bike is tight.

  5. #1855
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    Quote Originally Posted by sasquatch rides a SS View Post
    Nope, everything on the bike is tight.
    QR tight enough? I am sure you checked it but it is a possibility.

  6. #1856
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    It's all tight

  7. #1857
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    Hi Vik - What??? Your thinking L would be better now?

    I read all the Large or Medium Frame discussions with interest, and you were somewhat ambivalent back the origninal post. My challenge is that there are no test bikes out here in Berlin, Germany for me, so I have to order one, and hope for the best.

    I am 5-10+ and have 32/32 inch inseam, long torso/arms - but at 50 yrs old, a more upright position would be appreciated to take some pressure off the wrists, shoulders, and neck. I've had a 19.5 L frame 970 Trek for 20 years, and it is to stretched out for me anymore, but it has a much shorter ETT than the Krampus L. The seat remains higher than the bars regardless of my efforts to get the cockpit up, that was the race geometry I guess, didn't notice it the first 16 years of trails and commuting - same applications I'm looking for with the Krampus.

    What benefits do you expect moving from M to an L Frame Krampus (if you could do it again)?

    Thanks

  8. #1858
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    While I'm not Vik, I'll add my 2 cents. I'm 5'11" and the medium fits me perfect. Another thing to consider is the difference between your old-school Trek geometry and the current/modern geometry of MTBs and the Krampus. Specificially, modern bike geo (generally) means short rear centers, long TT and lower BBs. So, comparing your old Trek to the Krampus isn't exactly apples to apples. I highly reccomend a medium Krampus with a shorter stem and wider bars than your probably used to. Good luck!

  9. #1859
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rattattack View Post
    Hi Vik - What??? Your thinking L would be better now?


    I buy most of my bikes sight unseen. So deciding on a bike from geo charts is what I am used to. With Surly in particular, but also true for most other bikes I can ride 2 sizes fine.

    I chose the medium for a number of reasons including fit and it works fine - more than fine really it works great. I am happy to ride a medium and I have no plans to change.

    But, I could also ride a large just fine and if I was starting over would probably get a large. If the guy from CO who wants to trade a med for a lrg lived in my town I would for sure swap him frames. Having to deal with shipping and some risk makes the deal less appealing.

    Why do I want a large? Nothing life or death. Getting a bigger frame triangle means I can use a bigger frame bag, longer wheelbase for stability and higher TT. I would use a shorter stem to adjust for the longer TT so I am back in the same position.

    This is why I wouldn't spend a lot of $$ and swap frames. The fit is fine.

    You can see my riding position on a medium. I'm 5' 11" with 33" pants inseam and long arms.

    I agree with PP that nothing about what you write suggest you want a large frame.



    I bought my Krampus as a frame and built it up. That allowed me to cut the steerer myself and put the bars at any height I choose.

    The photo above is a Krampus complete at my LBS. I assume the steerer is factory cut so you can see where they are leaving it.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
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  10. #1860
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    I am 5'10+ with short legs and average arms and the medium fits me well with a 60mm stem. I like a neutral rise and I need a lot of spacers under the stem to be comfortable. I don't think the large would work for me.

  11. #1861
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    Pulsepro - Vik thanks guys, that is really excellent information. I was looking for more photos of riders on their Krampus (with info on their approx dimensions and bike size) so that was really insightful. I have a much better picture of things and it will be a M size for me, as I don't really need the extra space for baggage/camping. Is that photo in your LBS an L or M?

  12. #1862
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rattattack View Post
    Is that photo in your LBS an L or M?
    I don't recall for certain, but based on the angle of the TT vs. the seatstays I'm going to say it was a large.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
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  13. #1863
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    It's interesting that the head tube length for the large is only .4" longer than the small. At 5'-8" I actually can fit well on the small or medium, and the large is not that much of a stretch. If packing a lot of stuff was a priority, I'd actually choose the large. For me, stand over height on the large is workable but on the high side, length is no problem with a short stem. I have to make more of an effort to weight the front for traction with the longer front end than I would with the small. I have the large because at this time if you want to buy used, you can't be choosey. But I'm with Vic, I'd make a swap if it were convenient, but I'm not willing to pay a bunch for shipping.

  14. #1864
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    Not quite a Krampus - but heavily influenced. Custom titanium 29er plus - I need a size small, but like a low front end, so opted for a 440mm rigid fork. Being Old School, I'm sticking to bar ends and don't see the need for fripperies like dropper-posts, hence the ISP. Running 2x9 drivetrain and wheels are P35 rims on Hope hubs. Built for all-day epics - rides like a dream and looking forward to racking up some great rides.

  15. #1865
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    Quote Originally Posted by dovebiker View Post
    Not quite a Krampus - but heavily influenced. Custom titanium 29er plus - I need a size small, but like a low front end, so opted for a 440mm rigid fork. Being Old School, I'm sticking to bar ends and don't see the need for fripperies like dropper-posts, hence the ISP. Running 2x9 drivetrain and wheels are P35 rims on Hope hubs. Built for all-day epics - rides like a dream and looking forward to racking up some great rides.
    That is a seriously sweet bike! Where did you get it made? I bet it was fun for the frame builder to put together. 29+ looks great on a smaller frame for sure.

  16. #1866
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    Quote Originally Posted by dovebiker View Post
    Not quite a Krampus - but heavily influenced. Custom titanium 29er plus - I need a size small, but like a low front end, so opted for a 440mm rigid fork. Being Old School, I'm sticking to bar ends and don't see the need for fripperies like dropper-posts, hence the ISP. Running 2x9 drivetrain and wheels are P35 rims on Hope hubs. Built for all-day epics - rides like a dream and looking forward to racking up some great rides.
    That bike says "Don't F with me".

    Totally cool!

  17. #1867
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    coolest thing i've seen all day by far!

  18. #1868
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    Surly Krampus

    My Rasta Krampus:







  19. #1869
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    Quote Originally Posted by sasquatch rides a SS View Post
    Bringing back up this subject, is anybody having rotor rub issues with frame flex? I'm beginning to get some serious rub while mashing that's on my rear wheel only, and it's driving me nuts. I've heard it could partially be attributed to mechanical disc brakes. I had similar noise years ago on a different bike with BB5s and it went away when I got Elixirs. I had planned to get hydro's eventually...wondering if that will help with anything. Input? Anybody else's rotors start making noise while mashing up a hill?
    No issue here with the XL stock build (BB7, 180 front, 160 rear). I'm 215 lbs, and ridden hard up a lot of steep stuff. I'm also a single-speeder, so can mash pretty hard.

  20. #1870
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    Rode one earlier this year at the LBS, seems spendy for what you get but I do like the ride and appreciate any bike that will climb stairs without bending the rims. No idea where the name came from (surely it wasn't intended as a college campus bike) my money is on either a variation of "Grampas" for us old guys, or "Cramp-Ass" because the seat isn't up to the quality of the build.

  21. #1871
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    Quote Originally Posted by Forster View Post
    No idea where the name came from
    Krampus - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  22. #1872
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    Krampus tire question- my SS Krampus came with the 120 TPI Knards, and I ran them for about 200 miles (tubed) at ~12 psi and things were fine. Yesterday on a whim, I switched them out with the 27 TPI Knards I have been running on my Mukluk. Same tubes, same pressure, but wow, what a difference in ride quality! The 27's seem much more springy on small roots and rocks, with no difference in cornering ability. Yes, they are a good 200 g more than the 120's, but it seems worth it. It seems counter-intuitive to what I've learned about tires over the years. Anyone else have this experience?

  23. #1873
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    Quote Originally Posted by deuxdiesel View Post
    Krampus tire question- my SS Krampus came with the 120 TPI Knards, and I ran them for about 200 miles (tubed) at ~12 psi and things were fine. Yesterday on a whim, I switched them out with the 27 TPI Knards I have been running on my Mukluk. Same tubes, same pressure, but wow, what a difference in ride quality! The 27's seem much more springy on small roots and rocks, with no difference in cornering ability. Yes, they are a good 200 g more than the 120's, but it seems worth it. It seems counter-intuitive to what I've learned about tires over the years. Anyone else have this experience?
    usually springy is bad as far as suspension goes. damping takes the spring out of a bounce which may be what the 120's do better (I'd expect whichever tire has a coarser thread, heavier sidewall to be a better damper, my guess would have been the 27 tpi tires). I figure springy tires are bad because you don't want to bounce when you hit a bump while turning, as this would be terrible for traction.

    Maybe we're not talking about the same thing when we say springy. I would guess that the stiffer 27tpi sidewalls absorb more energy when you hit bumps, making them less springy.

  24. #1874
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    My wheel with the 27 tpi Knard feels slightly heavier than my wheel with the 120 tpi when I pick them up, but I cannot tell any difference whatsoever in ride quality. Maybe I'm insensitive.

  25. #1875
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    Quote Originally Posted by PretendGentleman View Post
    Maybe we're not talking about the same thing when we say springy. I would guess that the stiffer 27tpi sidewalls absorb more energy when you hit bumps, making them less springy.
    this.
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  26. #1876
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    My Krampus

    This is my medium. So far I have replaced the stock cassette with a 11/36 for mountain grinders, as well a 32 tooth front ring. White Bros. Rock Solid Carbon fork, Race Face Atlas stem, Titec (jones) H-bar, Ergon large grips (I have HUGE hands ), Juicy 5 Hydros, X fusion Hilo dropper with remote. Send it.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Surly Krampus-img_20130910_150750.jpg  

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  27. #1877
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    Hi Ripperme48,
    thx for the nice pics, your Krampus looks fantastic, really like your RF stem, the bars and grips look great - I'm in awe. The frame is an M, looks totally proportional, not at all dominated by the wheels - would you mind sharing your size as well? Height and inseam? How's the reach to the bars, are you sitting back some or more over the front wheel? Any plans to put on any other accessories, mud guards or fenders, rack?

  28. #1878
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    Quote Originally Posted by PretendGentleman View Post
    usually springy is bad as far as suspension goes. damping takes the spring out of a bounce which may be what the 120's do better (I'd expect whichever tire has a coarser thread, heavier sidewall to be a better damper, my guess would have been the 27 tpi tires). I figure springy tires are bad because you don't want to bounce when you hit a bump while turning, as this would be terrible for traction.

    Maybe we're not talking about the same thing when we say springy. I would guess that the stiffer 27tpi sidewalls absorb more energy when you hit bumps, making them less springy.
    Maybe so. The 27's felt a lot more like actual suspension off of small root drops and rocks than the 120's ever did. Anyways, I'm glad I made the switch.

  29. #1879
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    Thanks! I love the bike. I plan on putting a suspension fork on it at some point. Maybe a couple of fenders for winter. I am 5'9 and have a 30 in inseam. The stock stem was a bit long for my taste so I put the shorter RF Atlas on it.

  30. #1880
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    I was checking on some less expensive rim options for the krampugs project - and found
    Weinmann Metal Products Co., LTD
    They say they come in 700c... any validation?
    My bike is heavier than yours - it does not have Carbon or Titanium parts - I love it!

  31. #1881
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    Ripperme48, thanks for all the GEO date. Cherry bike, or sparkle apple, whatever, and the H-bars are something I never saw before out here in Euroland, immediately must have. I did see one awesome fatbike last weekend leading a pack of very high end racing fs mtbs (epic stumpies, etc) heading up a trail in Grünewald here. He did not touch the brakes bombing like a train downhill and left them further behind. I later passed them all on my Trek 970 but only maintained that for about a minute before they blew on by again. Thanks to you - and very many others - for sharing info and showing us what's out there and how it rides, keep it coming.

  32. #1882
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    Guess I'm tough on Knards

    Knard tread wears pretty fast, (I guess that's a Surly tire thing? This is my first experience) but while examining my tires today I found some other surprises. A gash in my rear tire and a few spots where the sidewall scuffed away to reveal threads on the front tire. I'm only posting one picture of the threads, though. Nothing that a layer of super glue can't fix I don't ride rocks really at all, but for those who do I can't imagine what your tires look like.
    Last edited by sasquatch rides a SS; 09-27-2013 at 09:52 AM. Reason: Pics not working

  33. #1883
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    right headset for krampus frame?

    Got my Krampus frame yesterday and now I'm looking for the right headset.

    Steering tube inner diameter is 44 mm, fork tube has 1 1/8" alias 28,6 mm.

    Stock Krampus has a Canecreek 40 series for 44 and so I looked at the cancreek website:

    40-Series

    So which of these will fit? Best for me would be a very tall headset because I want a higher handlebar and don't want so much ugly spacers.

    The value of 44 is clear. But why is there the number 40? The fork tube has 28,6 - I cannot see a number 40 here

  34. #1884
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    Quote Originally Posted by DerBergschreck View Post
    Got my Krampus frame yesterday and now I'm looking for the right headset.

    Steering tube inner diameter is 44 mm, fork tube has 1 1/8" alias 28,6 mm.

    Stock Krampus has a Canecreek 40 series for 44 and so I looked at the cancreek website:

    40-Series

    So which of these will fit? Best for me would be a very tall headset because I want a higher handlebar and don't want so much ugly spacers.

    The value of 44 is clear. But why is there the number 40? The fork tube has 28,6 - I cannot see a number 40 here
    I'm not sure exactly what the standards refer to, but I think I used zs 44 and ec 44 cups. the bottom cup is for giant steerer tubes and the baseplate (sold separately from lower cup) adapts the fork to it. the top cup does the adapting to 1 1/8" itself. The only top cup I've seen is the hidden style and I feel like you that I want a regular headset up top since I've got spacers anyways. If I ever went with a king headset, I'd definitely want it sticking out prominently up top.

    and speaking of headsets. anybody else have issues with their bottom cup wobbling in the frame? I'm on my second cup and it still has the problem. I tried loc-tite retaining compound and it didn't help.

    Quote Originally Posted by sasquatch rides a SS View Post
    Knard tread wears pretty fast, (I guess that's a Surly tire thing? This is my first experience) but while examining my tires today I found some other surprises. A gash in my rear tire and a few spots where the sidewall scuffed away to reveal threads on the front tire. I'm only posting one picture of the threads, though. Nothing that a layer of super glue can't fix I don't ride rocks really at all, but for those who do I can't imagine what your tires look like.
    my tires wore quick too but without any problems like you're describing. The knobs towards the side (but not the furthest out ones) are wearing away really strangely: the material is wearing from the inside of the knob rather than the top, so the knobs have the shape of an upside down L with the bottom of the L pointing towards the center of the tire. Despite being really worn (it's bad enough that people comment on it), the tires grip well even in mud. I'm waiting as long as I can so I can replace them with dirt wizards, or at least the front so I can put a suspension fork on it.

  35. #1885
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    Went through this exact same confusion last month when I built up my Krampus. I emailed cane creek directly for directions on what to use with the stock Krampus fork and here is what they said:

    "You need the ZS44 - EC44/30 assembly. Part # BAA0719K."

    I ordered and it fit perfectly and has worked with no problems. Methinks it would be a lot easier if Surly just bumped up the price of the Krampus frameset by $50 and included this headset...

  36. #1886
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    Quote Originally Posted by PretendGentleman View Post
    ...and speaking of headsets. anybody else have issues with their bottom cup wobbling in the frame? I'm on my second cup and it still has the problem. I tried loc-tite retaining compound and it didn't help.


    my tires wore quick too but without any problems like you're describing. The knobs towards the side (but not the furthest out ones) are wearing away really strangely: the material is wearing from the inside of the knob rather than the top, so the knobs have the shape of an upside down L with the bottom of the L pointing towards the center of the tire. Despite being really worn (it's bad enough that people comment on it), the tires grip well even in mud.
    Headset related -- I'm running a King InSet 7 and have had no issues w/ the lower cup loosening.

    Tire wear related -- I couldn't see your pix, sasquatch, but I certainly feel your pain. As well as the pain you describe, PretendGentleman. I've got about 425 miles on my knards and the center knobs still look pretty darn good, but the transition knobs are wasted. I do ride in rocks. Lots of rocks. And my tires -- particularly in the transition knob area -- are now comprised of a very significant percentage of tire plugs and super glue. Still love the Krampus, though!

  37. #1887
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    Tire wear - I too wanted to see sasquatch's pics. My issue with the knards is that the sidewalls are getting cut up just above the bead. I think it is perhaps from running pressure too low (although I don't feel like I'm going super low - 13ish? And low pressure is where these tires shine). It is like there is a small cut going right around the tire, just above the bead hook on the rim. Surly replaced my original tire on warranty, but same thing is happening on the rear. More of a problem on the rear, this is why I'm thinking it's the pressure. Might have to go with the 27 TPIs next time. Love the bike - this is the only issue I'm having.

  38. #1888
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    Quote Originally Posted by jnroyal View Post
    "You need the ZS44 - EC44/30 assembly. Part # BAA0719K."

    I ordered and it fit perfectly and has worked with no problems. Methinks it would be a lot easier if Surly just bumped up the price of the Krampus frameset by $50 and included this headset...
    Hm - I cannot find exactly this combination in the Canecreek Website.
    ...
    wait...
    I found this:
    Universal Cycles -- Cane Creek 40 ZS44/EC44/30 Headset - Fits 1 1/8" Forks

    Did you order from here?

    I live in germany and it would be better to find a dealer in europe.

  39. #1889
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    That's the right headset. If I remember correctly, you will also need a crown race to reduce down to 1 1/8 . That is sold separately . Email or call (Bikeman) , they are helpful

  40. #1890
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    Surly Krampus

    Quote Originally Posted by chunkylover53 View Post
    Tire wear - I too wanted to see sasquatch's pics. My issue with the knards is that the sidewalls are getting cut up just above the bead. I think it is perhaps from running pressure too low (although I don't feel like I'm going super low - 13ish? And low pressure is where these tires shine). It is like there is a small cut going right around the tire, just above the bead hook on the rim. Surly replaced my original tire on warranty, but same thing is happening on the rear. More of a problem on the rear, this is why I'm thinking it's the pressure. Might have to go with the 27 TPIs next time. Love the bike - this is the only issue I'm having.
    I'm with you, chunkylover53. I'm about 170lbs and started off running about 12lbs in the rear (tubeless). Moved to 14lbs after my first pinch. About 10 punctures/tears/pinches later, and I'm now up to about 16-17lbs in the rear -- even though it felt better at lower pressure. I know that the 27 TPI has a wire bead and fewer threads per inch and weighs more, but can anyone attest to better puncture/pinch resistance when ridden hard in rocky areas? I'm a closeted weight weenie, but I'd definitely add the weight for a significantly tougher tire...

  41. #1891
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    Quote Originally Posted by PretendGentleman View Post
    my tires wore quick too but without any problems like you're describing. The knobs towards the side (but not the furthest out ones) are wearing away really strangely: the material is wearing from the inside of the knob rather than the top, so the knobs have the shape of an upside down L with the bottom of the L pointing towards the center of the tire. Despite being really worn (it's bad enough that people comment on it), the tires grip well even in mud.
    Same here with a 27 tpi in the rear.

  42. #1892
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    Quote Originally Posted by rjedoaks View Post
    That's the right headset. If I remember correctly, you will also need a crown race to reduce down to 1 1/8 . That is sold separately . Email or call (Bikeman) , they are helpful
    But the lower is already 30 mm - so there should be no reducer be needed.
    Right?

  43. #1893
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    I'm not the expert here, but when I bought the headset , there was an additional crown race needed. You may be right though
    Someone else will chime in

  44. #1894
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    Quote Originally Posted by DerBergschreck View Post
    But the lower is already 30 mm - so there should be no reducer be needed.
    Right?
    If you buy the correct headset you don't need anything additional. I posted what headset I bought in one of these Krampus threads, but I can't find it quickly and it's not a tidbit of data I keep front and center.

    Edit - I found it. I used this headset with no issues:

    Orbit Z
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  45. #1895
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    Vik, you run a different headset don't you. I notice your lower is not an EC, that headset comes complete.

  46. #1896
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    Quote Originally Posted by rjedoaks View Post
    Vik, you run a different headset don't you. I notice your lower is not an EC, that headset comes complete.


    I'm pretty sure I have a FSA Orbit Z on the Krampus and the product photo and my bike photos look the same.

    I could be wrong. Once I get a headset installed I don't really think about it too much.

    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  47. #1897
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    Krampus likes the woods...

    Sometimes he likes to rail or maybe explore, other times he likes to lean against a tree while I lounge in a hammock drinking German beer. Go figure...









    If you're bushwhacking in between stints in the hammock drinking German beer, what goes with a boutique seat and seat bag better than a boutique machete?



    185mm arms turning 26-tooth chainring...

    Did I hear the Alfine 11 whimper softly?

    I'm a lanky spinner who likes to imagine he has "mechanical sympathy", so time will tell.

  48. #1898
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    The FSA orbit Z works, but because it has no external cup at the bottom the frame comes down a bit and the resulting steering angle will be a bit steeper than the 69,5º surly writes.

  49. #1899
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    Quote Originally Posted by DerBergschreck View Post
    The FSA orbit Z works, but because it has no external cup at the bottom the frame comes down a bit and the resulting steering angle will be a bit steeper than the 69,5º surly writes.
    How tall is the external cup?

    Edit - looks to be ~12mm - so my Krampus is 70 deg HTA or so.

    Cane Creek 40 Series EC44/40 Bottom Cup > Components > Headsets and Spacers > Headsets | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  50. #1900
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    RLCanon, great photos of that bad Krampus. Lot's of questions - tall stem, like that - what's that? I will want to bring my bars up even if I get an M frame, I have not been able to get a test ride out here in Berlin, Germany. Yours is an L obviously. Share your Height? And nice looking pouch on the front, is that from maxpedition? Tree friendly slings on your hammock :-) great stuff! Prost on the Germany beer - that'll depend on where you bought it I guess, Becks, Erdinger, Lübzer, Franziskaner, Andechser, from North to South it can really be different (we'd definitely need a new thread for that :-))) but always a good choice after a good day riding. Thanks for sharing, ride on!

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