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Thread: Surly Krampus

  1. #1651
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    I finally got to test ride a Krampus yesterday. My usual ride is a SS Niner SIR.9, with the steel Niner forks & 2.35 Racing Ralphs. First thing I noticed was how smooth it was. Just keeps rolling over stuff that has my Niner jumping & bouncing around a bit. The amount of grip was just staggering. It was a good 7 - 8lbs heavier than my Niner, but it felt surprisingly lively. I was expecting it to be a bit lethargic but was pleasanlty suprised.

    I'd love to have a full build but I'm really keen to look at rebuilding my wheels with some RH rims & running a Knard up front. Charliethebikemonger tried a Krampus front wheel in his shop demo SIR.9 & reported that it did in fact fit nicely. Out back I think the 2.35 Ralph should work ok on the RH rim.

    Cheers.
    Demo Krampus (Size Lg)

    IMAG1522 by pten2106, on Flickr
    SIR.9

    IMAG0130 by pten2106, on Flickr
    Last edited by takisawa2; 08-10-2013 at 02:23 PM. Reason: Added a photograph.

  2. #1652
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    Try the velocity 45 mm rim just out. Supposedly lighter than a RH and plenty of width for a knard.

    Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 4
    Last edited by thickfog; 08-12-2013 at 06:04 PM.
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  3. #1653
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    Quote Originally Posted by thickfog View Post
    Try the velocity blunt 45 mm rim just out.
    Did they name it "Blunt 45" now? I thought is name is "Dually".

  4. #1654
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    Quote Originally Posted by takisawa2 View Post

    IMAG1522 by pten2106, on Flickr
    SIR.9
    I wonder why nearly all Krampus demo bikes and even the ones for the official product photos have mounted monkey nuts although Surly says that with 1x9/10 drivetrain you won't need them. Important question: are there problems with tire clearance in the frontmost position of the rear wheel with Rabbitholes & Knards?

    Of course most of us (and mee too!) wants the shortest possible effective chainstay lenght - which we only get if the monkey nuts are not used.

  5. #1655
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    Quote Originally Posted by DerBergschreck View Post
    Did they name it "Blunt 45" now? I thought is name is "Dually".
    +1 - Velocity USA: Introducing the "mid fat" 45mm Dually rim
    Safe riding,

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  6. #1656
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    My reaction when people refer to every velocity rim as a 'Blunt __'

  7. #1657
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    Quote Originally Posted by DerBergschreck View Post
    I wonder why nearly all Krampus demo bikes and even the ones for the official product photos have mounted monkey nuts although Surly says that with 1x9/10 drivetrain you won't need them. Important question: are there problems with tire clearance in the frontmost position of the rear wheel with Rabbitholes & Knards?

    Of course most of us (and mee too!) wants the shortest possible effective chainstay lenght - which we only get if the monkey nuts are not used.
    I experience some rub of the tire on the chainstay when standing and climbing mine is 1x10 and rabbit hole with knards setup tubeless but, I got some when I was tubed as well. I run mine with the wheel fully forward no monkey nuts and am a clyde
    Last edited by clydeone; 08-11-2013 at 08:50 AM. Reason: Fix typos

  8. #1658
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    Quote Originally Posted by sasquatch rides a SS View Post
    My reaction when people refer to every velocity rim as a 'Blunt __'
    Really, Velocity are to blame for this - they now have three rims they call Blunts; there's a Blunt SL, a Blunt , and a Blunt 35, IIRC.

    If they're going to call what was the P35 the Blunt 35, then it's not unreasonable people might think the new rim would be the Blunt 45 - "Blunt" here meaning MTB rim. If all the extrusions are similar shapes this is actually a pretty reasonable thing for Velocity to do, in which case they should add the width to the other rims' names too...

  9. #1659
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    Quote Originally Posted by DerBergschreck View Post
    I wonder why nearly all Krampus demo bikes and even the ones for the official product photos have mounted monkey nuts although Surly says that with 1x9/10 drivetrain you won't need them. Important question: are there problems with tire clearance in the frontmost position of the rear wheel with Rabbitholes & Knards?

    Of course most of us (and mee too!) wants the shortest possible effective chainstay lenght - which we only get if the monkey nuts are not used.

    I am set up 1x11 with no monkey nuts. No rubbing at all with Knards on RAbbit Hole rims.

  10. #1660
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    Quote Originally Posted by ale50ale View Post
    I am set up 1x11 with no monkey nuts. No rubbing at all with Knards on RAbbit Hole rims.
    Nice to hear
    How much clearance does the knard have to the front and sides?

  11. #1661
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    Quote Originally Posted by clydeone View Post
    I experience some rub of the tire on the chainstay when standing and climbing mine is 1x10 and rabbit hole with knards setup tubeless but, I got some when I was tubed as well. I run mine with the wheel fully forward no monkey nuts and am a clyde
    Same here, other than the annoyance of the sound, it's a non-issue. I'm 215 lbs.

  12. #1662
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    Surly Krampus

    I get a little rub when cranking up a hill. Since my bike is still new, the new tire nubs still rub on the chain and frame a little bit. Doesn't effect performance at all so whatever!

  13. #1663
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    To the uphill rubbers?

    Have you bothered to notice if it could be the chain keeper?

    3 I've sold rubbed on that when fully forward in the dropouts, climbing with heavier riders.

    It won't move by adjusting, but a quick peek at where it would contact if pushed hard enough, followed by a Dremel with a grinder wheel taking off a mm or two of plastic in that region, problem solved......
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  14. #1664
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    I had issues with rubbing on the chain keeper initially while in the lowest gear, ended up removing one of the spacers in the mount for it and the rubbing stopped.

  15. #1665
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    Anyone know by any chance the maximum spoke tension for the rabbit hole rim?

  16. #1666
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    Re: Surly Krampus

    Quote Originally Posted by DerBergschreck View Post
    Did they name it "Blunt 45" now? I thought is name is "Dually".
    I guessed. I was wrong! ;-)
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  17. #1667
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    To the uphill rubbers?

    Have you bothered to notice if it could be the chain keeper?

    3 I've sold rubbed on that when fully forward in the dropouts, climbing with heavier riders.

    It won't move by adjusting, but a quick peek at where it would contact if pushed hard enough, followed by a Dremel with a grinder wheel taking off a mm or two of plastic in that region, problem solved......
    Could be kinda doubt it though since I am running a N-gear jump stop + bash ring

  18. #1668
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    Quote Originally Posted by SSBiker View Post
    Anyone know by any chance the maximum spoke tension for the rabbit hole rim?
    Maybe this is the question that should be asked by all those having rubbing issues!!!!!
    Yes/no?

  19. #1669
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    Quote Originally Posted by SSBiker View Post
    Anyone know by any chance the maximum spoke tension for the rabbit hole rim?
    mine is super high. I use dt hex head nipples, which allow you to use a ratchet and socket on the back side after removing the tire. if I try to spin a nipple with a conventional spoke wrench, the top of the nipple breaks right off. the rim is doing just fine even though I've had to replace the hub once.

    my rim is also cross laced (spokes from right flange go to holes in left side of rim and vice versa) and there is not tendency for the rim to wobble. My rim does have lots of damage from bottoming it out. I guess the desire for a plush ride leads me to run lower pressure and damage ensues. Also tiny air leaks can easily go unnoticed until you hit a big bump and feel your rim bottom out/get a pinch flat.

    Also, I had no rubbing problems with my wheel slammed forward. I weigh 195 and ride fast both up and down hills.

    another tidbit, I've had one flat from a stick poking though the window in the rim. Pretty annoying.

  20. #1670
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    I finally got around to setting my tires up tubeless this week. The tire and bead sets up dead easy, the real challenge is sealing the holes in the rim. My first attempt used a layer of gorilla tape over the stock rim strips. Bad idea. They sealed up great but eventually the rim strips bulged and started letting air out.

    Next try was three layers of gorilla tape, one narrower strip facing the inside of the rim and then two layers on the outside of the rim. Worked like a charm. I might have been able to get away with two layers of tape but I didn't want to risk having to re-do them another time. It's not like this bike is ever going to be light.

  21. #1671
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    Just got my Krampus built. The rims were supposed to be the same golden hue as the other parts, but unfortunately it doesn't really match. Should have went with anodizing instead of powder coating.

  22. #1672
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    Quote Originally Posted by peippo View Post


    Just got my Krampus built. The rims were supposed to be the same golden hue as the other parts, but unfortunately it doesn't really match. Should have went with anodizing instead of powder coating.
    Looks great. Just pretend that was how you wanted them to turn out.
    Safe riding,

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  23. #1673
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    Surly Krampus

    They'll be so dirty in a week and you'll never even notice

  24. #1674
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    I have seen a few people here with complaints about a 1x10 drivetrain. I had my reservations at the beginning, but with the right gear ratio a 1x10 can serve you well. I'm running a 34 tooth chainring with an 12-36 cassette. Just rub some stank on it when climbing a long hill. Mash those pedals, and you'll get up and over the hump. I haven't had a problem keeping up with my friends who are using double and triple ring cranksets, even on the high speed pursuits.

  25. #1675
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    Surly Krampus

    I think the 1x10 is awesome. Wouldn't have it any other way.

  26. #1676
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    i wouldnt mind a 1 x 11, maybe next year

  27. #1677
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    Quote Originally Posted by WyldStallyn View Post
    I have seen a few people here with complaints about a 1x10 drivetrain. I had my reservations at the beginning, but with the right gear ratio a 1x10 can serve you well.
    IMHO, the key word here is "can" (or "may"); 1x10 is not going to suit everybody, or all places.

  28. #1678
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    Quote Originally Posted by satanas View Post
    IMHO, the key word here is "can" (or "may"); 1x10 is not going to suit everybody, or all places.
    IF having the low end gear range of a typical geared mtb is important to you, the 1x10 will be insufficient.

    Seems like it would have taken zero extra effort by Surly to spec a crank thats more amenable to a 2x conversion. Or maybe there's some good reason to make the change difficult or expensive...?

    Aside from that, I'm quite happy with the entire factory spec. And the bike as a whole is amazing.

  29. #1679
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    Quote Originally Posted by drummerdavid View Post
    IF having the low end gear range of a typical geared mtb is important to you, the 1x10 will be insufficient.
    Just something to think about. I bought my main MTB 5yrs ago as a 3 x 9 and at the time I would have told you that gear range was essential for my MTB.

    After a while I got rid of the big ring and ran it as a 2 x 9. At that time I would have told you both rings were essential.

    I then moved to a 1 x 9 and now a 1 x 10 setup and ride steeper trails than when I first bought it.

    Not everyone will be happy with a 1 x 10, but for a lot of people they'll have to try it and get used to it to know if it's going to work for them.

    I actually find the 1 x 10 allows me to climb techy terrain much better because I can't apply so much torque to the rear wheel which frequently broke the tire loose in the granny. Plus each pedal stroke gets me further over the obstacle and I only have 3 or 4 hard powerstrokes in me before I need a break. If I can clear sections with a few cranks and get a moments rest before the next obstacle I can get much further up techy climbs.

    My GF is a fairly weak rider and I suggested she try and not use her granny for a couple rides. She found it tough, but also noticed she was cleaning sections she usually got stuck on.
    Safe riding,

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  30. #1680
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    Quote Originally Posted by vikb View Post
    Just something to think about. I bought my main MTB 5yrs ago as a 3 x 9 and at the time I would have told you that gear range was essential for my MTB.

    After a while I got rid of the big ring and ran it as a 2 x 9. At that time I would have told you both rings were essential.

    I then moved to a 1 x 9 and now a 1 x 10 setup and ride steeper trails than when I first bought it.

    Not everyone will be happy with a 1 x 10, but for a lot of people they'll have to try it and get used to it to know if it's going to work for them.

    I actually find the 1 x 10 allows me to climb techy terrain much better because I can't apply so much torque to the rear wheel which frequently broke the tire loose in the granny. Plus each pedal stroke gets me further over the obstacle and I only have 3 or 4 hard powerstrokes in me before I need a break. If I can clear sections with a few cranks and get a moments rest before the next obstacle I can get much further up techy climbs.

    My GF is a fairly weak rider and I suggested she try and not use her granny for a couple rides. She found it tough, but also noticed she was cleaning sections she usually got stuck on.
    Of course there are conditions where a bigger gear will work better than a small one.

    But I'm talking about other conditions where someone would find the opposite to be true. For ME thats a long steep climb where I'd like to ride seated. My problem with the Krampus spec is it makes that gearing conversion unnecessarily difficult or expensive.

  31. #1681
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    Quote Originally Posted by PretendGentleman View Post
    mine is super high. I use dt hex head nipples, which allow you to use a ratchet and socket on the back side after removing the tire. if I try to spin a nipple with a conventional spoke wrench, the top of the nipple breaks right off. the rim is doing just fine even though I've had to replace the hub once.

    my rim is also cross laced (spokes from right flange go to holes in left side of rim and vice versa) and there is not tendency for the rim to wobble. My rim does have lots of damage from bottoming it out. I guess the desire for a plush ride leads me to run lower pressure and damage ensues. Also tiny air leaks can easily go unnoticed until you hit a big bump and feel your rim bottom out/get a pinch flat.

    Also, I had no rubbing problems with my wheel slammed forward. I weigh 195 and ride fast both up and down hills.

    another tidbit, I've had one flat from a stick poking though the window in the rim. Pretty annoying.
    I said those cutouts in the rim were a flat-magnet and people called me crazy.

  32. #1682
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    Quote Originally Posted by drummerdavid View Post
    Of course there are conditions where a bigger gear will work better than a small one.

    But I'm talking about other conditions where someone would find the opposite to be true. For ME thats a long steep climb where I'd like to ride seated. My problem with the Krampus spec is it makes that gearing conversion unnecessarily difficult or expensive.
    I see where you're coming from. Either get tough and develop calves of steel, or buy an offset double crank. Surly should have offered the choice between single and double. Their MWOD does fit and won't break the bank. My LBS said they would charge me the difference if I wanted them to install a Surly Mr. Whirly. It was nice to know I had the option available. The owner said he could surely sell the Zee crank. I decided to tough it out, and I'm enjoying the challenge. That said, not everyone is sick and twisted like me. I guess a couple years riding a single speed helped build a solid base. When it comes down to it, we all just want to enjoy the ride. The Krampus can most definitely provide this, be it stock or modified to our liking.

  33. #1683
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    Quote Originally Posted by WyldStallyn View Post
    .... Either get tough and develop calves of steel, or buy an offset double crank.....
    Well, I did come up with a 3rd alternative.

    See this thread Zee Crank Double Conversion For Krampus

  34. #1684
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    Surly Krampus

    Quote Originally Posted by vikb View Post
    Just something to think about. I bought my main MTB 5yrs ago as a 3 x 9 and at the time I would have told you that gear range was essential for my MTB.

    After a while I got rid of the big ring and ran it as a 2 x 9. At that time I would have told you both rings were essential.

    I then moved to a 1 x 9 and now a 1 x 10 setup and ride steeper trails than when I first bought it.

    Not everyone will be happy with a 1 x 10, but for a lot of people they'll have to try it and get used to it to know if it's going to work for them.

    I actually find the 1 x 10 allows me to climb techy terrain much better because I can't apply so much torque to the rear wheel which frequently broke the tire loose in the granny. Plus each pedal stroke gets me further over the obstacle and I only have 3 or 4 hard powerstrokes in me before I need a break. If I can clear sections with a few cranks and get a moments rest before the next obstacle I can get much further up techy climbs.

    My GF is a fairly weak rider and I suggested she try and not use her granny for a couple rides. She found it tough, but also noticed she was cleaning sections she usually got stuck on.
    I had the same mindset before I tried out the Krampus. I was scared to spend $2k-ish on a bike that might not suit me as well as I want it to. However, I absolutely love the 1x10. I'm finding that I keep shying further and further away from the Krampus' 'granny gear' every time I ride. Not sure if I am getting stronger or becoming a smarter rider or if I am just tired of spinning out on steeper climbs in the lowest gear.

  35. #1685
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    Surly Krampus

    Completely unrelated question - is anyone running a dropper post on their Krampus? Is it even possible? I'm tired of lowering my seat and raising it back up every time I ride downhill.

  36. #1686
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    I just finished my 4th (and probably final) SS race on my Krampus, and while it is the most fun bike I have owned, it is really hard to overcome the inertia the huge tires have on twisty and punchy trails. I love it as a play bike, but for me, it doesn't work as well as a regular 29er in SS mode. Anyone else have feedback on their SS Krampus?

  37. #1687
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gouda Cheez View Post
    Completely unrelated question - is anyone running a dropper post on their Krampus? Is it even possible? I'm tired of lowering my seat and raising it back up every time I ride downhill.
    Yes it's possible:

    GravityDropper Adjustable Height Seatpost

    If my Krampus was less a bikepacking bike and more dedicated to trail riding I would install a dropper in a second. I may still get one, but just wait until a sale/clearance discount comes my way.
    Safe riding,

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  38. #1688
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    Quote Originally Posted by clydeone View Post
    I experience some rub of the tire on the chainstay when standing and climbing mine is 1x10 and rabbit hole with knards setup tubeless but, I got some when I was tubed as well. I run mine with the wheel fully forward no monkey nuts and am a clyde
    After some further looking I figured out the rubbing is on my chain. It is just on the lower (?return?) as it runs from the chainring to the lower derailleur pulley.

  39. #1689
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    Quote Originally Posted by vikb View Post
    Yes it's possible:

    GravityDropper Adjustable Height Seatpost

    If my Krampus was less a bikepacking bike and more dedicated to trail riding I would install a dropper in a second. I may still get one, but just wait until a sale/clearance discount comes my way.
    Thanks for pointing that one out. Pricey, but may be worth it for what I'm using my bike for.

  40. #1690
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gouda Cheez View Post
    Thanks for pointing that one out. Pricey, but may be worth it for what I'm using my bike for.
    I havent lowered my seat during a ride since like 1986. Does it help a lot? For what sort of descent?

  41. #1691
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    Surly Krampus

    Quote Originally Posted by drummerdavid View Post
    I havent lowered my seat during a ride since like 1986. Does it help a lot? For what sort of descent?
    Rocky, loose, and steep.

    Makes putting weight on the back tire a hell of a lot easier... at least for me.

  42. #1692
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gouda Cheez View Post
    Rocky, loose, and steep.

    Makes putting weight on the back tire a hell of a lot easier... at least for me.
    Yeah. I know what you mean. Dont do a lot of it though. When I do it makes me nervous to have the my sternum bumping the back of the seat....

  43. #1693
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    Quote Originally Posted by drummerdavid View Post
    I havent lowered my seat during a ride since like 1986. Does it help a lot? For what sort of descent?
    Steep and technical. It allows you to lower your center of gravity, which also lowers your chances of going OTB. It allows the bike to pivot beneath you while staying low, and not having to rise up. It can be done manually right before sustained downhills. it does make a tremendous difference - not too many Red Bull Joyride riders tonight with their seats raised up

  44. #1694
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    Quote Originally Posted by drummerdavid View Post
    I havent lowered my seat during a ride since like 1986. Does it help a lot? For what sort of descent?
    +1 Mates use them and I ride the same stuff. Hate seeing the cable on the bars as well

  45. #1695
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    Quote Originally Posted by deuxdiesel View Post
    I just finished my 4th (and probably final) SS race on my Krampus, and while it is the most fun bike I have owned, it is really hard to overcome the inertia the huge tires have on twisty and punchy trails. I love it as a play bike, but for me, it doesn't work as well as a regular 29er in SS mode. Anyone else have feedback on their SS Krampus?
    I've ridden mostly SS/Fixed bikes in the past, but haven't tried ss with the Krampus yet. I'm not sure I want to either. I could see it being fun on non-technical flowy trails without a lot of climbing. But I think gears really allow me to take full advantage of the 3" tires, when riding a variety of terrain. The 3" tires have great traction while climbing, but without gears, I don't know that I could climb that steep. And the Krampus is quite fast once you get it moving, so it's nice to have the faster gears to keep it moving even faster.

    For me the 1x10 with clutch rear der has been great. Plenty of range, and no issues shifting. It's shifted better than previous geared mountain bikes I've tried.

    While it would have been nice to give people the option of a double crank, I think the Zee crank really helped keep price down which is also important.

  46. #1696
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    Quote Originally Posted by drummerdavid View Post
    I havent lowered my seat during a ride since like 1986. Does it help a lot? For what sort of descent?
    My main MTB has a dropper and it gets used constantly on a ride. One of the best additions I've made to my MTB ever. I live in coastal BC and travel to places like Moab and Sedona. So steep technical riding is on the menu most of the time.

    I've ridden those same places without a dropper post so it's not essential, but having done it both ways I wouldn't go back to a rigid seatpost for that kind of riding.
    Safe riding,

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  47. #1697
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    Quote Originally Posted by vikb View Post
    My main MTB has a dropper and it gets used constantly on a ride. One of the best additions I've made to my MTB ever. I live in coastal BC and travel to places like Moab and Sedona. So steep technical riding is on the menu most of the time.

    I've ridden those same places without a dropper post so it's not essential, but having done it both ways I wouldn't go back to a rigid seatpost for that kind of riding.
    I live near Moab, and used to ride there a lot. Dropping the seat was something we never did. But, we were into the XC style riding... and while theres plenty of techy parts on the various Moab trails, its nothing like the insane monster drops people are doing these days.
    .
    So I guess the dropper makes sense. But I dont need one for my riding. Its cool how this mtb detail has sort of returned to the beginning.
    .

  48. #1698
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    A dropper seatpost is sort of like suspension. Not essential. But for some trails and some people it's a highly beneficial innovation.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  49. #1699
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    Quote Originally Posted by WyldStallyn View Post
    I see where you're coming from. Either get tough and develop calves of steel, or buy an offset double crank. Surly should have offered the choice between single and double. Their MWOD does fit and won't break the bank.
    I bought an mwod and the offset is too much. The 32 or 36 outer ring on the mwod, which I would use 85% of the time makes for a terrible chainline when you're doing moderate climbs. A regular double works fine based on earlier posts in this thread and gives you a good chainline when you're using the bigger ring for most climbs.

    The mwod would be good if you expected to be in the granny gear a lot! I don't like how granny gears chew up the chain and cassette due to increased chain tension, so my mwod is off the bike. I just use a deore triple with an extra 2mm spacer behind the bb cup and a single cog off my 10sp cassette moved behind the big cog and the whole thing works like a regular triple. I'm in the middle ring 85% of the time, but the granny is there when I need it and so is the big ring.

  50. #1700
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    Surly Krampus

    My wishlist of add-ons keeps getting longer. Thanks guys!

    Any of you guys using Chunky grips? Wondering how much better they are than the 'stock' Crank Bros foam grips.

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