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Thread: Surly Krampus

  1. #101
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    Would a Cannondale Lefty 29er fork work on it?

  2. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thor29 View Post
    Would a Cannondale Lefty 29er fork work on it?
    There are Lefty conversion kits for the Pugsley etc so I imagine it would, one way or another

  3. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by kingdom View Post
    Bike looks fantastic. Just wondering what frame, fork and wheelset will weigh...
    Also,how much and availability?
    I would venture to say that if weight was a real concern, this is probably not the bike for you.


    That said, this looks awesome.




    Quote Originally Posted by XJaredX View Post
    There are Lefty conversion kits for the Pugsley etc so I imagine it would, one way or another

    Yeah, it should. P321 or Mendon Cycle is selling/making some Pugs Fatbike Lefty clamps for Lefty Max (clamped on, not bonded steerer clamps) forks. IIRC, Mendon (not affiliated, other than receiving awesome service from him) has some Lefty Max 140 alu forks with PBR dampers at a good price to go in those clamps. You just have to build the correct offset on the front wheel, and limit the travel of the Lefty Max fork so the tire doesn't hit the crown.

    The forks are normally 140mm of travel, minus whatever it takes to clear the tire. For a regular 29er tire, the safe reduction is 30mm, leaving 110mm of travel.
    Last edited by pimpbot; 07-24-2012 at 10:49 PM.

  4. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by AshKa View Post
    Me too, just because !

    Will (does) it fit a KM front fork ? Please Surly say yes !!
    KM fork is about 90 mm wide and a Knard tire has 3" = 75 mm. Height should be about 15 mm more an the KM fork has about 50 mm room. So it will fit without problems So I will build a Knard/Rabbithole frontwheel for my KM as soon as the parts are availiable
    Last edited by DerBergschreck; 07-25-2012 at 01:40 AM.

  5. #105
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    You wish your bike was this fun.

    I had a huge.....er....smile......the entire time i rode it.

  6. #106
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    Hurry knard!

    Quote Originally Posted by DerBergschreck View Post
    KM fork is about 90 mm wide and a Knard tire has 3" = 75 mm. Height should be about 15 mm more an the KM fork has about 50 mm room. So it will fit without problems So I will build a Knard/Rabbithole frontwheel for my KM as soon as the parts are availiable
    Me too!

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    Quote Originally Posted by pimpbot View Post
    I would venture to say that if weight was a real concern, this is probably not the bike for you.


    That said, this looks awesome.

    Yeah, it should. P321 or Mendon Cycle is selling/making some Pugs Fatbike Lefty clamps for Lefty Max (clamped on, not bonded steerer clamps) forks. IIRC, Mendon (not affiliated, other than receiving awesome service from him) has some Lefty Max 140 alu forks with PBR dampers at a good price to go in those clamps. You just have to build the correct offset on the front wheel, and limit the travel of the Lefty Max fork so the tire doesn't hit the crown.

    The forks are normally 140mm of travel, minus whatever it takes to clear the tire. For a regular 29er tire, the safe reduction is 30mm, leaving 110mm of travel.
    IIRC Mendon once said he could fit gazzis easily with the stock clamps.
    Still need ot reduce travle but other than that... maybe Mendon will drop by and confirm!
    If steel is real then aluminium is supercallafragiliniun!

  8. #108
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    I'm just curious as to whether or not it would be worthwhile to try to fit a Knard on the stock Alex Adventurer rim of the Ogre... if it did fit, i wonder if it would be too narrow a rim to even take advantage of the tire.

  9. #109
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    As well they should considering both Surly and Salsa are owned by the same company.

    Quote Originally Posted by mikesee View Post
    One of those has never been within a country mile of my shop nor my bikes, so I have no clear idea.

    But I'd guess yes. Especially going forward--we all know Salsa will hop onto Surly's bandwagon and capitalize any way they can.

  10. #110
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    This news just in:

    from Surly HQ, the OD of the Knard is 30.4", about the same as a BFL, and will fit in a Pugs.

    That 30.4" is basically measured from the ground to the top of the tire, so those who wonder if it'll fit your existing bike just need to measure up from the ground to see if your bike has the clearance.

    Sorry if this has already been covered in this thread

    Pat

  11. #111
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    I asked this on Milltowns FB page but I wonder what this wheel/tire could do for the fat front crowd like my self. I would even love this rim with my studded rear tire to see what it could do.
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  12. #112
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    Really interested to hear the price on these tyres and rims, hoping that it's more reasonable than what Fatbike stuff costs, i.e. aroundabouts your avg decent rim like a Stans around $70-80 and hopefully less than $70 for the tyre.

    I've received some stupid, negative NEG rep and comments before (normally not signed by the loser), but this one for my reply to the thread below just absolutely amazes me - guess someone doesn't like me Normally a good sign you're being honest and forthtright

    Quote Originally Posted by Loser
    Don't think they ship these to the third world. Not to peckerheads like you, at any rate.
    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    Most definitely sign me up for at least one of these Knard tyres when they're available, most definitely want one to put on the front of the KM with 2.55" WW LT outback
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  13. #113
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    Quote Originally Posted by tl1 View Post
    As well they should considering both Surly and Salsa are owned by the same company.

  14. #114
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    Yes, really Quality Bicycle Products

    Quote Originally Posted by XJaredX View Post
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    Surly bikes I have owned, 1x1- check, KM-check, Pacer check, Cross Check x3-check check check. Krampus- coming soon!

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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    I was being sarcastic, I've my share of Surly and Salsa stuff. Although it just occurred to me that maybe the Surly/Salsa/QBP thing isn't common knowledge. But it certainly is known by Mikesee

  17. #117
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    Side note, it is interesting to see the coming together of Fatbikers and 29er heads in this thread ...not that the two are mutually exclusive, but still

  18. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    Really interested to hear the price on these tyres and rims, hoping that it's more reasonable than what Fatbike stuff costs, i.e. aroundabouts your avg decent rim like a Stans around $70-80 and hopefully less than $70 for the tyre.

    I've received some stupid, negative NEG rep and comments before (normally not signed by the loser), but this one for my reply to the thread below just absolutely amazes me - guess someone doesn't like me Normally a good sign you're being honest and forthtright
    well.. anyone who judges other people by what they can afford should be dealt w/ harshly.

  19. #119
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    Considering that everyone is all amazeballs that they had the mold to make this tire, I'm guessing it's going to be closer to fatbike tire than normal tire. I'm figuring $100 USD and if it falls within $20 higher or lower, so be it

  20. #120
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    Fatbikes are...

    Quote Originally Posted by XJaredX View Post
    Side note, it is interesting to see the coming together of Fatbikers and 29er heads in this thread ...not that the two are mutually exclusive, but still
    ...29ers as far as tire OD is concerned! Here's an experiment I'm trying with my Pugsly; "Half-fat Doggie-style":
    <a href="http://s1042.photobucket.com/albums/b426/pliebenberg/Bikes%20and%20Bike%20Hardware/Half%20Fat/?action=view&amp;current=P6110006.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b426/pliebenberg/Bikes%20and%20Bike%20Hardware/Half%20Fat/P6110006.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
    Content here does not officially represent the CA DPR.

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  21. #121
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    This is the revenge of 29ers...
    ...silencing the 650B shouting...

    Pee in who's Koolaid?... LOL

    Go Krampus, go TwoNynePlus

    Gotta find even "BIGGER" Rocks to crush now!

  22. #122
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    Quote Originally Posted by XJaredX View Post
    Considering that everyone is all amazeballs that they had the mold to make this tire, I'm guessing it's going to be closer to fatbike tire than normal tire. I'm figuring $100 USD and if it falls within $20 higher or lower, so be it
    The low volume will drive the price high. A cheap fatbike tire is $90 and a bling one is $150. If they offer the Gnard in 27tpi and 120tpi versions they probably be priced along the same lines.
    Safe riding,

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  23. #123
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    I'm not a mind reader nor do I play one on TV. It just seemed like kind of sharp edged anti-Salsa comment to me about how they jump on whatever bandwagon Surly develops. I think they're both great companies that happen to share a common owner. Maybe Salsa doesn't give Mike new free stuff to test like Surly does or something and it makes him sad? I don't know exactly the genesis of the Salsa slap.

    Originally Posted by mikesee
    One of those has never been within a country mile of my shop nor my bikes, so I have no clear idea.

    But I'd guess yes. Especially going forward--we all know Salsa will hop onto Surly's bandwagon and capitalize any way they can.
    Quote Originally Posted by XJaredX View Post
    I was being sarcastic, I've my share of Surly and Salsa stuff. Although it just occurred to me that maybe the Surly/Salsa/QBP thing isn't common knowledge. But it certainly is known by Mikesee

  24. #124
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    Quote Originally Posted by tl1 View Post
    I'm not a mind reader nor do I play one on TV.
    So why are you playing one on MTBR?

    Did Salsa pay you to post that?...
    Safe riding,

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  25. #125
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    Whole heartily agree and never do, I'll ride with anyone, riding on anything as long as it's safe. Not quite sure which way your comment was meant to go though.

    Quote Originally Posted by colker1 View Post
    well.. anyone who judges other people by what they can afford should be dealt w/ harshly.
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  26. #126
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    as far as the tire goes, I think one of the things i like most is the tread pattern. small, square knobs. they said "moto inspired." I think there is a reason every dirt bike tire there is has basically the same square knob pattern. because you don't need ridiculous knob shapes!!!!! they should make all sizes of this tire and people would buy them. perhaps even buy lots of them. simple, simple, simple!

  27. #127
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    So, with promises of mounting a 29er plus front wheel/tire are we rehashing the 69/96/55 concept on a bigger level?

    Can I be the first to say 30.4/29 = 39er, or 30.49er, or 59.4er, or 29erplus/29er, or can we have "E" added to the mix in millimeters? 698E Will Carver make a Killer E?

    Just ride the damn bike... LOL?

    Krampus, Krampus oh so Fine...
    ...your Big Tires are just Divine

  28. #128
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    Yes they did. I'm one of their (formerly secret) agents.

    Quote Originally Posted by vikb View Post
    So why are you playing one on MTBR?

    Did Salsa pay you to post that?...
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  29. #129
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    Quote Originally Posted by NEPMTBA View Post
    So, with promises of mounting a 29er plus front wheel/tire are we rehashing the 69/96/55 concept on a bigger level?

    Can I be the first to say 30.4/29 = 39er, or 30.49er, or 59.4er, or 29erplus/29er, or can we have "E" added to the mix in millimeters? 698E Will Carver make a Killer E?

    Just ride the damn bike... LOL?

    Krampus, Krampus oh so Fine...
    ...your Big Tires are just Divine
    Well, opionion make bikes interesting. We like to personalize.
    I may an odd one wearing logo-less t-shirts in daily life, but most people like to be a billboard of their preference, or let thir bike extend their chosen identity.

    I am extremely grateful Surly made 29x3.0 happen. It looks to have been worth the wait double over. They don't do things half-azzed.
    698mm must happen also. Krampus likely is not the ideal framee for it though, as they seem to keep an eye on also fitting regular 29" tires. This means they'll need to use limited BB drop. With 29+ the BB is likely high-ish, as many playful bikes are. I would not be surprised if they used 68mm BB drop as works so well in regular sized for the KM. Sticking full-on 32"/698 wheels in that, will make it a bit toppy. Well, a lot. The skinny slick 698 tires would still be a fun addition for those in a one-bike marriage or dorm room, but such wheels would totally be wroth dedicated plus sized versions of Pacers, Cross-Checks and Karate Monkeys. I happen to own all in 622, BTW. I promise you, it will be as cool as 29+, just in its own way. 29+ is the not-skinny-anymore approach, 32" would be the tall people's fitted wheels, or medium folks' cool rollers. 36" is already out there, Waltworks has a decent knobby tire on the way, and even that clumsy size has a market. Unicyclists love it, oversized riders yearn for it. Undersized riders, just ride stairases up with sub-par quality heavy-azz tires. 36" when taken to commercial quality parts and a nice selection, will push some older bikes out of a stable for sure. Why commute (sub-urban and rural) the 700c skinny bike when the 36" performance bike is on stand-by? The float on those should be similar to 29+, just require gentler terrain and more speed to really shine I suppose.

    Isn't it great that we have sizes to pick from now? In MTB's at least. 650B is just superfluous, the difference with 26" is so small that it will simply not happen that it's closer to a sweet spot than 29". The sweet spot for many riders will be above 29. 29+ is a gentle way to mentally prepare for what will come. As is 36". It's out there, and it works. For the right rider (friggin' tall) it's already better than any alternative.
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  30. #130
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    Mukluk half fat 29er

    I've been running a Mukluk half fat front, 29er rear. I can run 29er front as well. The Kanard might be be a tight fit in the rear. This set up is much faster for dirt. I have not tried the rear fat, 29er front set up. Maybe with the Kanard?
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  31. #131
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    You think the Knard kanardly fit?

    Quote Originally Posted by paulmaag View Post
    I've been running a Mukluk half fat front, 29er rear. I can run 29er front as well. The Kanard might be be a tight fit in the rear. This set up is much faster for dirt. I have not tried the rear fat, 29er front set up. Maybe with the Kanard?

  32. #132
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    Sooo Close!!! Singlespeed ability desired (without tensioner)!

    Singlespeed option would have Sold Me!!!
    Horizontal Dropouts or EBB, or both…
    Bummer… Sooo Close!!!

    Maybe I will seek out a Fat Tire 36er+...

  33. #133
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1StuntMonkey View Post
    Singlespeed option would have Sold Me!!!
    Horizontal Dropouts or EBB, or both…
    Bummer… Sooo Close!!!

    Maybe I will seek out a Fat Tire 36er+...
    I see horizontal dropouts.

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  34. #134
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alex413 View Post
    I was going to build a KM this winter, but this might take its place.
    yeah.....me too! hard to wait for interbike or whenever we will get full numbers on the frame geo. i hope the chainstays aren't super long. but they probably are to fit that beefcake tire.

  35. #135
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Train View Post
    yeah.....me too! hard to wait for interbike or whenever we will get full numbers on the frame geo. i hope the chainstays aren't super long. but they probably are to fit that beefcake tire.
    Try the pic pix counting method, some of the pics are pretty good for this.

    But first, have you ridden a rigid bike with (really) long stays? I found it to rail the corners. Just placed the rear wheel in the most aft position on a Monocog29. the difference to wheelieing was there, but it's not just downsides. Not at all. Comfort, climbing stability, downhill quietness, it's quite profound how that changes with long stays. Be open to it.

    Riders between 5' and 6'8', for a given frame model, all share one thing: chain stay length. Do the math on that. It's one of those things like crank length. You should try the size that fits you, and try and get used to it :-)
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  36. #136
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cloxxki View Post
    Try the pic pix counting method, some of the pics are pretty good for this.

    But first, have you ridden a rigid bike with (really) long stays? I found it to rail the corners. Just placed the rear wheel in the most aft position on a Monocog29. the difference to wheelieing was there, but it's not just downsides. Not at all. Comfort, climbing stability, downhill quietness, it's quite profound how that changes with long stays. Be open to it.

    Riders between 5' and 6'8', for a given frame model, all share one thing: chain stay length. Do the math on that. It's one of those things like crank length. You should try the size that fits you, and try and get used to it :-)
    you make a good point. I switched to a 29er, which also had longer stays than my older bike and I immediately noticed that my rear wheel would spin out easily; I compensated by keeping my weight further back, and my climbing is overall just as good.

    The question of getting the correct cs length for your body is one that doesn't seem to have a clear answer. The various factors that affect center of gravity and how mobile your center of gravity is do not clearly depend in any straightforward way on how tall you are. I would guess that a taller ride can move their center of gravity fore and aft more than a shorter rider, all else equal, which would suggest that finding your optimal cs length matters more for shorter riders than taller riders, but not that shorter riders need a shorter or longer cs than a similar taller rider.

    To me it seems that with such a large number of variables one's only option is to make an informed guess based one prior experience and expert advice. If you're really short, you may want to pay more attention.

    Regardless, at 5'8" I'm not worried at all about being able to change my riding style to make a Krampus work for me.

  37. #137
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    Quote Originally Posted by PretendGentleman View Post
    you make a good point. I switched to a 29er, which also had longer stays than my older bike and I immediately noticed that my rear wheel would spin out easily; I compensated by keeping my weight further back, and my climbing is overall just as good.

    The question of getting the correct cs length for your body is one that doesn't seem to have a clear answer. The various factors that affect center of gravity and how mobile your center of gravity is do not clearly depend in any straightforward way on how tall you are. I would guess that a taller ride can move their center of gravity fore and aft more than a shorter rider, all else equal, which would suggest that finding your optimal cs length matters more for shorter riders than taller riders, but not that shorter riders need a shorter or longer cs than a similar taller rider.

    To me it seems that with such a large number of variables one's only option is to make an informed guess based one prior experience and expert advice. If you're really short, you may want to pay more attention.

    Regardless, at 5'8" I'm not worried at all about being able to change my riding style to make a Krampus work for me.
    I am 6'4" and I know not a single person with longer legs than myself without being inches taller. I have done XC racing up the steepest hills, and have learned to shift my weight the hard way.

    IMO wheels, cranks and chainstays are all neglected height-specific parameters on the bikes. Standardized to one size fits no-one for cost and simplicity. No reason why S and M frames should share the same wheels, someone is drawing the short straw. There should be a wheel size difference of about 2" for a 2" frame height increment. Wheels are just less than your inseam. 2"in the frame is 4" in the body.

    Tall riders will need to man up, and deal with long chainstays. Learrn to loft a front wheel by will, not by merely allowing it to loft.
    Klok - XC - Skate - Ski

  38. #138
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    Mr. Jones, meet Mr. Knard and Mr. Rabbit Hole. Gentlemen, we'll be spending a lot of time together
    I was thinking that ) But adding 1/2"+ of tyre radius will have a similar effect as slackening the bike a degree, nothing major, but the Jones is pretty spot on as-is. I like the idea of this tyre, but not so sure the effect it may have on the handling. It'll be an expensive experiment.
    650B x 3.2"ish would match a 29er diameter better, as a half-fat option I think it's the way to go.

  39. #139
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    Quote Originally Posted by james-o View Post
    I was thinking that ) But adding 1/2"+ of tyre radius will have a similar effect as slackening the bike a degree, nothing major, but the Jones is pretty spot on as-is. I like the idea of this tyre, but not so sure the effect it may have on the handling. It'll be an expensive experiment.
    650B x 3.2"ish would match a 29er diameter better, as a half-fat option I think it's the way to go.
    Good points. And I have also been thinking about 650b. Tire and rims will no doubt be coming in those sizes seeing as how 650 seems to be the way the big hit bikes are going to go. For me, depends on the wait. I would build my Rabbit hole/knard wheel this winter. Jeff runs/has run 50mm 29er rims on the front and back of his bike with Ardents. He's very fond of the 72mm fat front with the BFL & 50 mm/Ardent rear. I couldn't anticipate the changes that would come with handling using the Knard/Rabbit Hole, but the thought of slacking the front of Jeff's bike a bit is kind of appealing. In fact, I'm going to run my headset spacers under the head tube with the truss as jeff mentions on his blog. Supposed to slack the bike just a bit.

    Oh, and with the Rabbit Hole/Knard I could lose at least 400 grams of rotational weight over my current fat front set-up.

  40. #140
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    Quote Originally Posted by james-o View Post
    I was thinking that ) But adding 1/2"+ of tyre radius will have a similar effect as slackening the bike a degree, nothing major, but the Jones is pretty spot on as-is. I like the idea of this tyre, but not so sure the effect it may have on the handling. It'll be an expensive experiment.
    650B x 3.2"ish would match a 29er diameter better, as a half-fat option I think it's the way to go.


    The Surly input on the Krampus I've seen says the Rabbit Hole + Gnard is the same outside diameter as a BFL. Jeff runs a BFL on the front of the Jones so a Krampus-esque wheel/tire there shouldn't change anything.

    Will a Rabbit Hole fit on the back of a Jones?

    My friend has run both a BFL and a HDU on the front of his Jones and not had any issues with the difference in steering geo using slightly bigger or smaller tires.
    Safe riding,

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  41. #141
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    Quote Originally Posted by vikb View Post


    The Surly input on the Krampus I've seen says the Rabbit Hole + Gnard is the same outside diameter as a BFL. Jeff runs a BFL on the front of the Jones so a Krampus-esque wheel/tire there shouldn't change anything.

    Will a Rabbit Hole fit on the back of a Jones?

    My friend has run both a BFL and a HDU on the front of his Jones and not had any issues with the difference in steering geo using slightly bigger or smaller tires.
    A 47mm Kris Holm rim with a 2.55 WTB Dissent rubs on the rear of my Ti Jones. The same tire on a P35 on the rear of my steel Jones does not rub.

  42. #142
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    Quote Originally Posted by vikb View Post


    The Surly input on the Krampus I've seen says the Rabbit Hole + Gnard is the same outside diameter as a BFL.
    Oh crap... I was under the impression I could put a Rabbit Hole and Knard on the front of my Ogre but if this is true, I dunno then?

  43. #143
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    Quote Originally Posted by XJaredX View Post
    Oh crap... I was under the impression I could put a Rabbit Hole and Knard on the front of my Ogre but if this is true, I dunno then?
    The Krampus wheel is tall, but not wide like a 5" tire. Surly has said the Rabbit Hole will work on the front of a Karate Monkey which means an Ogre is good to go...
    Safe riding,

    Vik
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  44. #144
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tripower View Post
    A 47mm Kris Holm rim with a 2.55 WTB Dissent rubs on the rear of my Ti Jones. The same tire on a P35 on the rear of my steel Jones does not rub.
    Hmm. That doesn't bode well for the Rabbit Hole. I know Jeff and Aquaholic have been using 50mm rims on the Jones out back. Maybe they have the eccentric bottom bracket in a different position?

  45. #145
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    Quote Originally Posted by bluestatevirgin View Post
    Maybe they have the eccentric bottom bracket in a different position?
    or smaller tires.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  46. #146
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    Quote Originally Posted by bluestatevirgin View Post
    Hmm. That doesn't bode well for the Rabbit Hole. I know Jeff and Aquaholic have been using 50mm rims on the Jones out back. Maybe they have the eccentric bottom bracket in a different position?
    How does moving the bb affect the rear axle location?



  47. #147
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    Quote Originally Posted by vikb View Post
    or smaller tires.
    Yes, smaller tires. 2.35 tires on the 47mm Kris Holm fit fine.

  48. #148
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    Quote Originally Posted by vikb View Post
    My friend has run both a BFL and a HDU on the front of his Jones and not had any issues with the difference in steering geo using slightly bigger or smaller tires.
    With those large tires there has got to be some sag involved too. IOW with rider mounted the tire must flatten out a bit and lower the bike a bit because the pressure is so low. I don't know personally though, I haven't had an opportunity to ride one.

  49. #149
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    There aren't many 'stock' 29" frames that the RH/Knard are gonna fit into.

    Not without some serious muffin top action anyway.

    I had to run a 2.4 Ardent out back on an amphibious tour of Canyonlands this spring. No match for the Knard--none. 50mm rims pictured.
    <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/SNq_d97ImuGnqVby-y1N-RltJjMXiDiNlir3tmyGpnU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-2niNYvNdgx0/UBQjFfjiIoI/AAAAAAAAg0k/3qEUjE0nuUI/s800/IMG_7181.jpg" height="537" width="800" /></a>

    <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/hEoKYZbQmtitCwHCuoMk8xltJjMXiDiNlir3tmyGpnU?feat=e mbedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-iJIoFbJJFLw/UBQjHCOTlbI/AAAAAAAAg00/3FFlptex-MY/s800/IMG_7197.jpg" height="800" width="535" /></a>

    <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/UipO6BpyecIhHgnQ08hZhRltJjMXiDiNlir3tmyGpnU?feat=e mbedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-0GYACHltY4c/UBQjGIG_CsI/AAAAAAAAg0s/4-WjZwbW7EY/s800/IMG_7193.jpg" height="537" width="800" /></a>

    There were enough hard surfaces on this route that full fat made no sense--too heavy, too slow, too big of a magnet for goatheads. And enough soft surfaces that 'normal' 29" didn't make much sense either. The Krampus platform ticked all the right boxes, but since the frame/fork weren't available yet I did the next best thing.

    The combined speed and float are indeed the answer to the question that I've been asking the last few years. Now that this platform exists I've begun plotting other, similar, but better tours to places I'd not have wanted to go before.

    Gonna be a good fall. And winter. And spring...

    I heart Surly.

    MC

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    In fact, I'm going to run my headset spacers under the head tube with the truss as jeff mentions on his blog. Supposed to slack the bike just a bit
    No Jones-tech hijack intended here, but I have mine with a couple of spacers under the lower cup, feels good but only tweaks it ~1/4 degree, it's subtle but I doubt I'd really notice much now if I changed it back. A full degree I do start to feel though.

    Vik, that BFL looks quite close to a big 29x2.4" OD based on fork clearance in the pic, there's less in it than I thought. Headset spacers / cup depths can balance things a bit and minor differences you get used to. The bigger tyre volume willl be more noticable and fun.

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