Using new Ti bolts and steel washers from paragon, and removing the lock washers seems to have mostly resolved the creaking.
did you use loctite on the new bolts?
it is much better to use a bit of grease on the threads of your slider bolts instead. I've seen people bung up the hardware and attempt to use all kinds of weird hardware, lock washers, over torquing, loctite, or some other ill advised method to keep their sliders in place when all you should need is a dab of grease.
it prevents binding when torquing down the bolts so you get the proper clamping force. that way they will stay put. save the loctite for your rotor bolts.
Rigid SS 29er
Fat Lefty
29+
SS cyclocross
all steel
it is much better to use a bit of grease on the threads of your slider bolts instead. I've seen people bung up the hardware and attempt to use all kinds of weird hardware, lock washers, over torquing, loctite, or some other ill advised method to keep their sliders in place when all you should need is a dab of grease.
it prevents binding when torquing down the bolts so you get the proper clamping force. that way they will stay put. save the loctite for your rotor bolts.
I did use a bit of blue loctite. Just following Paragon's recommendations. I may try just a dab of geese next time I have them loose.
So, from your comments above, I would guess that people have issues helping these sliding dropouts from moving and making noise.... This is my first frame with non-fixed dropouts. I hadn't thought it would be a problem area.
I did use a bit of blue loctite. Just following Paragon's recommendations. I may try just a dab of geese next time I have them loose.
So, from your comments above, I would guess that people have issues helping these sliding dropouts from moving and making noise.... This is my first frame with non-fixed dropouts. I hadn't thought it would be a problem area.
there's not a problem with them that i'm aware of. IMO it's most commonly the amateur mechanic's fault if something goes wrong, not the sliders themselves. I was unaware that Paragon suggests using Loctite. I've never had problems with the bolts backing out of my sliders, which is the only reason i would use loctite. usually i read about people having problems with slippage, or see the results of some hack mechanic doing everything wrong thing imaginable instead of just using them the way they were intended to be used. you'll probably be just fine.
Rigid SS 29er
Fat Lefty
29+
SS cyclocross
all steel
6 foot even. Normal torso to leg ratio. On a 20" and using a niner setback post. It's 400mm. Could be shorter though as its set on 8 out of 9 on the height scale on the post for me. Maybe close to half the post in the seat tube. Hope that helps.
I wonder how a 20" Gnarvester frame would work with regular 29'r tires....hmmmm.. Anyone "back roading" one of these in Ti or Al? I'd like to 86 my old HiFi and move the wheels and components over to a hardtail BUT keep the ability to convert to a SS or 29+ if the need arises.
I wonder how a 20" Gnarvester frame would work with regular 29'r tires....hmmmm.. Anyone "back roading" one of these in Ti or Al? I'd like to 86 my old HiFi and move the wheels and components over to a hardtail BUT keep the ability to convert to a SS or 29+ if the need arises.
I just put my Stans Crest wheels and 29x2.2 Racing Ralphs on mine.
I wonder how a 20" Gnarvester frame would work with regular 29'r tires....hmmmm.. Anyone "back roading" one of these in Ti or Al? I'd like to 86 my old HiFi and move the wheels and components over to a hardtail BUT keep the ability to convert to a SS or 29+ if the need arises.
I switched out my Surly 29+ tires for 2.35 Nobby Nics front and rear (and a Reba fork) on my 17" Ti Gnarvester. Been riding it like this for the last year with a 1x10 setup.
It rides fantastic, but I am getting ready to switch back to a rigid 29+ single speed.
Good Times.
I switched out my Surly 29+ tires for 2.35 Nobby Nics front and rear (and a Reba fork) on my 17" Ti Gnarvester. Been riding it like this for the last year with a 1x10 setup.
It rides fantastic, but I am getting ready to switch back to a rigid 29+ single speed.
Good Times.
Got a photo of that bad boy? How does the 17" feel and what size are your other bikes?
Also, in 29+, how close are you to your overlap?
The answer to any or all of those world be awesome!
Got a photo of that bad boy? How does the 17" feel and what size are your other bikes?
Also, in 29+, how close are you to your overlap?
The answer to any or all of those world be awesome!
Yes I just happened to have a some pics. Keep in mind, I am 5'8" (with shoes on), and the 17" is perfect for me. My other mtb is a Niner SIR 9 in size small, but the reach on the small Niner is the same as the Carver 17". The build of the Sir 9 is not as high end, but I am using the same tires, stem, bar etc. just not the carbon rims and cranks (all my cranks are 170's).
This bike feels great. It feels good as a single speed and it feels good with gears. I actually sold (parted out) my Air9 to build this up as my racing days are done and I waned a comfortable ride that I could take bikepacking or long relaxing rides as well as an occasional event if I get the bug again.
I have no toe overlap issues when I ride. Just yesterday I was railing some switchbacks while some of the guys (with full susp.) were hitting the dust trying to negotiate the tight turns (going uphill). No issue with toe and tire, not even when I have the 3.0's on there.
Hope this helps.
Yes I just happened to have a some pics. Keep in mind, I am 5'8" (with shoes on), and the 17" is perfect for me. My other mtb is a Niner SIR 9 in size small, but the reach on the small Niner is the same as the Carver 17". The build of the Sir 9 is not as high end, but I am using the same tires, stem, bar etc. just not the carbon rims and cranks (all my cranks are 170's).
This bike feels great. It feels good as a single speed and it feels good with gears. I actually sold (parted out) my Air9 to build this up as my racing days are done and I waned a comfortable ride that I could take bikepacking or long relaxing rides as well as an occasional event if I get the bug again.
I have no toe overlap issues when I ride. Just yesterday I was railing some switchbacks while some of the guys (with full susp.) were hitting the dust trying to negotiate the tight turns (going uphill). No issue with toe and tire, not even when I have the 3.0's on there.
Hope this helps.
Awesome dude, thanks. It sounds like that's the size I may want too, then.
Replacing the sliding dropout bolts and washers, and chasing down some other creaks -- headset, seatpost, and seat -- I now have a silent running Gnarvester!
Very sweet machine.
I'm continually surprised at how fast it is / can be.
I ordered my Gnarvester on August 15, 2016. I have never had a custom builder meet their estimated delivery time before Carver. The two month delivery is just short of amazing. Custom geometry done perfectly. I am very impressed with the quality of the torchwork. As good as any I have seen. The finish is first rate too.
Davis was great to work with. A very reasonable price and delivered on time, I could not ask for anything more.
I ordered my Gnarvester on August 15, 2016. I have never had a custom builder meet their estimated delivery time before Carver. The two month delivery is just short of amazing. Custom geometry done perfectly. I am very impressed with the quality of the torchwork. As good as any I have seen. The finish is first rate too.
Davis was great to work with. A very reasonable price and delivered on time, I could not ask for anything more.
Fekkin sweet dude.
Looking forward to ride report, build specs, mor pics!!!
That does look awesome. Good info on the transformer. I really like it as a front, didn't think it was that much bigger then a chupa
Well after I pulled the front wheel to install the rotor the chupa is hitting the arch. Must not have had the wheel fully up into the dropouts the first time. Still more clearance than the Transformer but it is not going to work. My fox has a hollow arch so if I try and dremel it out it will be like eliminating the arch.
It pisses me off that vendors don't give an axle to arch measurement. What good is an axle to crown measurement? Not sure what I am going to do for a fork now. I want something that works for any tire and not something I have to worry about getting a rock stuck in the tire and throwing me off as it jams in the arch.
I'll probably end up with a Gnarvester fork but I'll have to rebuild the front wheel with a boost hub.
Well after I pulled the front wheel to install the rotor the chupa is hitting the arch. Must not have had the wheel fully up into the dropouts the first time. Still more clearance than the Transformer but it is not going to work. My fox has a hollow arch so if I try and dremel it out it will be like eliminating the arch.
It pisses me off that vendors don't give an axle to arch measurement. What good is an axle to crown measurement? Not sure what I am going to do for a fork now. I want something that works for any tire and not something I have to worry about getting a rock stuck in the tire and throwing me off as it jams in the arch.
I'll probably end up with a Gnarvester fork but I'll have to rebuild the front wheel with a boost hub.
BTW the headtube decal is a snake eye not a kiwi!
Yeah, axle to crown is for geometry purposes. Fortunately there are now a number of 29+ fork options, but it depends on your budget.
If you look in the picture above of the rear dropout the end of the chainstay has a bolt in it. You can see in the picture a fine vertical line near the end of the chainstay. Unscrew the allen bolt and the stay comes apart for the belt.
If you look in the picture above of the rear dropout the end of the chainstay has a bolt in it. You can see in the picture a fine vertical line near the end of the chainstay. Unscrew the allen bolt and the stay comes apart for the belt.
I decided not to throw good money after bad and bite the bullet and got a Manitou Magnum Pro 29+. I tend to be the kind of person who looks not for the latest and greatest but the best value. OK ya I'm a retrogrouch. I just did not like the idea of other than a 9mm QR which has always done me fine. But in this case I wasted the money on the hubs and the Fox fork. I went with the Manitou because it was designed for 29+, I could not find a Machete, and I figured it would have the greatest clearance. It did. Comparing to the Fox Factory Float 32 ICT which has 380mm the Magnum is 410mm over a inch more clearance. Now I don't have to worry about which tires I can use. As soon as Davis Carver gets me my new Industry Nine Classic hubs I am back in business.
So the final build will be, again choosing my idea of value and simplicity:
Carver Gnarvester custom geometry
I9 Classic Hubs 12x42 and 15x110
Easton ARC 45 - tubed no leaking goo
TRP Spyke brakes - mechanical no leaking hydraultics
Aerodyne bars, seatpost, stem spacers, top cap
1990's Selle Italia gel flite - the saddle that works best for me
Sram GX 10 speed 1x with 40t Fourier cog.
Grip Shift - always been a grip shift guy
Innova Transformers/Chupacabra 29x3.0
Ride report won't mean anything because I have never owned a mountain bike that fit me. So it will likely be a big difference just because it fits-finally.
Davis really has been great to deal with.
Last edited by mike_kelly; 11-08-2016 at 08:53 PM.
Reason: typo - changed 580mm to the correct 380mm
I decided not to throw good money after bad and bite the bullet and got a Manitou Magnum Pro 29+. I tend to be the kind of person who looks not for the latest and greatest but the best value. OK ya I'm a retrogrouch. I just did not like the idea of other than a 9mm QR which has always done me fine. But in this case I wasted the money on the hubs and the Fox fork. I went with the Manitou because it was designed for 29+, I could not find a Machete, and I figured it would have the greatest clearance. It did. Comparing to the Fox Factory Float 32 ICT which has 380mm the Magnum is 410mm over a inch more clearance. Now I don't have to worry about which tires I can use. As soon as Davis Carver gets me my new Industry Nine Classic hubs I am back in business.
So the final build will be, again choosing my idea of value and simplicity:
Carver Gnarvester custom geometry
I9 Classic Hubs 12x42 and 15x110
Easton ARC 45 - tubed no leaking goo
TRP Spyke brakes - mechanical no leaking hydraultics
Aerodyne bars, seatpost, stem spacers, top cap
1990's Selle Italia gel flite - the saddle that works best for me
Sram GX 10 speed 1x with 40t Fourier cog.
Grip Shift - always been a grip shift guy
Innova Transformers/Chupacabra 29x3.0
Ride report won't mean anything because I have never owned a mountain bike that fit me. So it will likely be a big difference just because it fits-finally.
Davis really has been great to deal with.
Sounds like a well thought out build, congrats! Can't wait for the pictures.
One comment: I understand being a retrgrouch and all, but you really should consider going tubeless. It's worth the very slight inconvenience of the initial setup.
It is not worth saving a few ounces to deal with leaking goo, sorry.
It has nothing to do with saving weight. It has everything to do with a better ride and less flats. Not sure why you're talking about leaking goo, that's not an issue if done right.
This is what is wrong with the bike industry. All the engineers promise a minuscule improvement which yields no standardization and total chaos. (which is why I just wasted $600 on a fork and hubs despite my best research). I have been riding mountain bikes since before my first fat tire festival in Moab in 1991. I don't get flats, never been a problem. I guarantee I would never notice the difference between tube and tubeless. To me it is a solution without a problem. For me the problem is a mess of proprietary parts that are all incompatible with each other.
Now if you notice the difference that is fine, great but the problem for me is that I get dragged into your world kicking and screaming because nobody makes parts for my bikes anymore and I can't build my new Carver without wasting money because there is no specifications available from vendors.
This is what is wrong with the bike industry. All the engineers promise a minuscule improvement which yields no standardization and total chaos. (which is why I just wasted $600 on a fork and hubs despite my best research). I have been riding mountain bikes since before my first fat tire festival in Moab in 1991. I don't get flats, never been a problem. I guarantee I would never notice the difference between tube and tubeless. To me it is a solution without a problem. For me the problem is a mess of proprietary parts that are all incompatible with each other.
Now if you notice the difference that is fine, great but the problem for me is that I get dragged into your world kicking and screaming because nobody makes parts for my bikes anymore and I can't build my new Carver without wasting money because there is no specifications available from vendors.
Sorry you mentioned tubeless yet?
I don't think it's that big of a deal, but yeah people forget that everyone's terrain, rides, style, needs etc are different.
This is what is wrong with the bike industry. All the engineers promise a minuscule improvement which yields no standardization and total chaos. (which is why I just wasted $600 on a fork and hubs despite my best research). I have been riding mountain bikes since before my first fat tire festival in Moab in 1991. I don't get flats, never been a problem. I guarantee I would never notice the difference between tube and tubeless. To me it is a solution without a problem. For me the problem is a mess of proprietary parts that are all incompatible with each other.
Now if you notice the difference that is fine, great but the problem for me is that I get dragged into your world kicking and screaming because nobody makes parts for my bikes anymore and I can't build my new Carver without wasting money because there is no specifications available from vendors.
Sorry you mentioned tubeless yet?
Nope, not sorry at all. I've been riding mountain bikes for more than 25 years as well and have seen LOTS of new tech in that time. Some of it works and some doesn't. I'll give anything a try if I think it might work better than what came before. Usually I let it mature a little before trying. I tried suspension forks and full suspension for many years, and have decided I don't need or want them. Hydraulic disc brakes? Yup, probably the single best MTB development in the last 25 years, and they keep getting better. I'll never go back to V Brakes! Plus tires? Hell yes! And tubeless? for me, big YES. They had their issues in the early days and I waited many years before trying them, but at this point, I'm never going back to tubes. Are they perfect? nope. But, the current crop of tubeless ready rims and tires and so easy to set up if you pick the components wisely. I also think you will notice a difference in comfort and traction if you give it a chance. The great thing is nobody is forcing you to go tubeless. Tubes will be around forever, and they work just fine with modern rims and tires. I'd say that's the ultimate innovation, new technology that's better, but is still completely compatible with the old system.
Unfortunately, it can't always be like that. I agree there are plenty of new standards that don't really do much and just piss people off. But sometimes, new standards are required. You want to run that 3" tire in your old XC 29er frame? Sorry it just doesn't work. Things have to get wider to accommodate wider tires. I think they should have just gone to 157mm instead of 148mm, but whatever.
I respect your right to like the things you do. As tfinator notes everyones needs are different.
But I still see those things as minuscule improvements to me. I hate disc brakes. I have never had a set work better than my V-Brakes. I can't get the rotors adequately true and neither can either of the local bike shops. I have ridden almost every trail in Moab with V-Brakes. Never had a problem stopping. For me value is the key word and that usually means I would give up a small improvement for the benefit of economy of scale, simplicity, lower cost and reliability.
My wife got a set of 29er wheels with her used Fat bike, great. But they were tubeless and they would not hold air. So in went the tubes. Now they hold air.
The bottom line is I own a lot of bikes and it bums me out when I can't get a spare part to keep them running for the simple reason that somebody decided 4 arm cranks were better than 5 arm cranks.
You obviously do not ride anywhere there are prickle bushes or other thorny vegetation? If I rode with tubes on a lot of our northern trail that are filled with thorns bushes that grow down on the ground I would be stopping to fix a flat every few meters. I was the only guy running tubeless really in our group (most hadn't been riding MTB long) and they had had no issues with tubes either, until we ventured onto those trails, remember the first ride, 7 flats and when the ride was finished I pulled about 6 thorns from my tyres, never had an issue or had to stop to fix a flat. All in the group moved to tubeless after that and it's pretty much a requirement if you ride with us for that reason.
Pic attached showing the thorns we encounter, that's a quarter next to it for size, i.e. the thing was about an inch long, rode with it in that tyre for I have no clue how long with only needing to pump it up once per week if I wasn't riding during the week and letting the sealant move about.
Originally Posted by mike_kelly
Is there a soapbox in the house?
This is what is wrong with the bike industry. All the engineers promise a minuscule improvement which yields no standardization and total chaos. (which is why I just wasted $600 on a fork and hubs despite my best research). I have been riding mountain bikes since before my first fat tire festival in Moab in 1991. I don't get flats, never been a problem. I guarantee I would never notice the difference between tube and tubeless. To me it is a solution without a problem. For me the problem is a mess of proprietary parts that are all incompatible with each other.
Sorry you mentioned tubeless yet?
One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??
You (maybe not you Mike but other people reading this) can also try it with no sealant. The Chupacabra on my hugos works with no sealant
I ran them that way until I decided I wanted the flat protection. less rolling resistance.
I don't mean to harp on this stuff, but have you tried modern tubeless tires/rims and disk brakes? They work sooo much better than the old stuff. Really set and forget. With the brakes, it's not about ultimate stopping power, it's about feel and modulation. And no maintenance.
I don't mean to harp on this stuff, but have you tried modern tubeless tires/rims and disk brakes? They work sooo much better than the old stuff. Really set and forget. With the brakes, it's not about ultimate stopping power, it's about feel and modulation. And no maintenance.
Total agreement with the above.
Old stuff works, but I like the new stuff sooo much better. And that is for its function and reliability not its new-ness.
As to my Gnarvester....
I found the chain angle a bit steep in the biggest (climbing) gear. Running Turbine cranks and AB oval 30t ring (was bad with round ring too). I swapped the 2.5mm bb spacer to the ND side and find it much better - quieter and smoother - in low gears.
As to my Gnarvester....
I found the chain angle a bit steep in the biggest (climbing) gear. Running Turbine cranks and AB oval 30t ring (was bad with round ring too). I swapped the 2.5mm bb spacer to the ND side and find it much better - quieter and smoother - in low gears.
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As long as you don't have any chain/tire rub issues, I think that's a good idea.
After decades of never having a MTB fit me properly this is a breath of fresh air.
Got the Industry Nine hubs and laced them up last night. The Magnum has enough room, with the same Innova Transformers that were touching the arch with the Fox Factory 32, to put my hand under the
arch.
The "Lightning Snake" is companion to the Thunderbird in west coast First Nations stories. The lightning snake strikes and the thunderbird then swoops down to grab the prey.
I finally got a dropper for my Gnarvester and it's awesome!
I've got a Fall Line from 9Point8. Great post. I've got one in my Tallboy LT.
Anyway, I routed the cable internally. The cable has to stick out the top of the seat tube a few inches to set things up. In trying to pull the cable housing the other way (towards the handlebar)it hung up and something, somewhere, inside the frame caught and cut the cable housing.
Any thoughts on what part of the internal routing is catching and hacking the outer cable. Any thoughts on how to smith out the routing so it doesn't hack the cable housing?
Can someone with an alloy XL measure the front-center for me, noting what fork model and travel you are using? Something doesn't look right on Carver's geometry chart. The 21" has a 1" longer ETT than the 19", with the same STA and HTA, yet the wheelbase is only 7mm longer?!?
Can someone with an alloy XL measure the front-center for me, noting what fork model and travel you are using? Something doesn't look right on Carver's geometry chart. The 21" has a 1" longer ETT than the 19", with the same STA and HTA, yet the wheelbase is only 7mm longer?!?
OhioPT,
I have a 21" (XL) Aluminum Gnarvester with a Rockshox Reba RL fork; it is the 27.5+/29 model. It has not been modified and retains the stock 120mm travel.
I measured my front-center at 28.5"/724mm; from center of the fork axle to the center of the bottom bracket.
I bought my gnarvester without a test ride so I couldn't compare the XL ride to a L but I will say that I was accidentally shipped a L. I considered keeping it but after seeing the two, I am glad I went with the XL. The L would have felt a bit cramped; the difference was pretty noticeable in just holding the frame.
Pick, thanks so much for the info! That's very helpful. So it does look like the geo chart is wrong for the XL. I'm not sure what length fork they used when making the chart, but even if it was with a rigid 480mm a-c, the wheelbase even with the sliding drop outs fully forward should still be somewhere around 1150mm (based on your F-C with the 120mm boost Reba, which I'm guessing is ~530mm unsagged).
Does that boost Reba fit 29+ tires, and if so, what tires and what rim are you using?
Oh, and can you measure the BB height for me (and which tires you are currently using)?
Does that boost Reba fit 29+ tires, and if so, what tires and what rim are you using?
It does fit my 29+ set-up. I have about 4-5mm from the center of the tread to the fork arch, closer to 6-7mm on the sides. It is a bit tight but I've never had any rubs. I went with that fork based on a recommendation from Waltworks on the 29+ board. It was a great suspension fork for the cost. I'm used to Fox forks so it feels a bit firmer to me but I really like it.
Originally Posted by OhioPT
Oh, and can you measure the BB height for me (and which tires you are currently using)?
My BB is right at 13.5"
I went with the Sun Ringle Duroc 40 rims based on a recommendation from Mikesee on the 29+ board. I had also heard good things about the Chronicles so those are the tires I chose. They went tubeless so easily. I'm 215 in gear & run about 14psi. Any more is very 'bouncy' in the rear and any less feels like they could roll over on a hard turn. I'm sure I could get away with a couple less psi but I've been happy there.
My whole spec list theme was 'bang for the buck'. I tried to make quality selections but keep a reasonable budget and I've been happy with it. If I was a higher-level rider, I'm sure I would want to make some changes but as a weekend warrior, it has been reliable & fun!
So it does look like the geo chart is wrong for the XL. I'm not sure what length fork they used when making the chart, but even if it was with a rigid 480mm a-c, the wheelbase even with the sliding drop outs fully forward should still be somewhere around 1150mm (based on your F-C with the 120mm boost Reba, which I'm guessing is ~530mm unsagged).
My wheelbase is 1178. I might have another mm, maybe two to move the sliding dropouts forward but I had trouble tightening them when in the 'all the way forward' position.
It does fit my 29+ set-up. I have about 4-5mm from the center of the tread to the fork arch, closer to 6-7mm on the sides. It is a bit tight but I've never had any rubs. I went with that fork based on a recommendation from Waltworks on the 29+ board. It was a great suspension fork for the cost. I'm used to Fox forks so it feels a bit firmer to me but I really like it.
My BB is right at 13.5"
I went with the Sun Ringle Duroc 40 rims based on a recommendation from Mikesee on the 29+ board. I had also heard good things about the Chronicles so those are the tires I chose. They went tubeless so easily. I'm 215 in gear & run about 14psi. Any more is very 'bouncy' in the rear and any less feels like they could roll over on a hard turn. I'm sure I could get away with a couple less psi but I've been happy there.
My whole spec list theme was 'bang for the buck'. I tried to make quality selections but keep a reasonable budget and I've been happy with it. If I was a higher-level rider, I'm sure I would want to make some changes but as a weekend warrior, it has been reliable & fun!
I like how you think! I'm the same. Glad to see the Reba clears the big rubber. In that thread I saw the A-C is 531mm for the 120 Reba.
BB sounds high. Carver's geometry chart shows a BB drop of 75mm. Assuming your wheel/tire diameter is 770mm, the BB drop on your bike is only 42mm (770mm/2 - 13.5"). Add in 30mm of fork sag (25% of 120mm travel), and the BB drop is still only ~52mm. What the hell is going on with that chart??
Agree... something does look amiss. I measured my actual tire radius at just under 770 (~768.35) but your point is still valid. When I worked with Forrest on the frame purchase, he was very quick to answer my questions. Maybe a quick call/email to him can clear it up?? Regardless, it's fun bike if you think the geometry numbers will work for you!!
Agree... something does look amiss. I measured my actual tire radius at just under 770 (~768.35) but your point is still valid. When I worked with Forrest on the frame purchase, he was very quick to answer my questions. Maybe a quick call/email to him can clear it up?? Regardless, it's fun bike if you think the geometry numbers will work for you!!
I didn't catch what tire you're using. I think the Reba will easily clear the smaller 29x3s, but i wonder if it will clear something like the innova transformer?
I'm using Maxxis Chronicles. I'm not familiar with the Innova but if it is larger than the Chronicle, it may not work. I believe the Chronicle would be on the upper side of what would work...
I pulled my 9point8 Fall Line today so I could put on the WolfTooth lever.
I've confirmed my belief that the internal routing for a dropper post on this frame just plain sucks. The bend is too tight and the edges inside the frame are sharp and catch and gouge the cable housing.
If I get to it again I Will Not run the cable internally down the downtube.
Finally got my Ti '18 finshed up. This thing rocks, I ended up putting my Talas 36 130-160 on it. I also added a can creek angelset headset to it and made it 1 degree slacker. My gearing is 36x49 using a wolf tooth cog.
I am picking up parts for an alu Gnarvester build. It is a large frame (19") and I am 6'0" with a 32" inseam. I'm trying to figure out what length seatpost I should order. Will a layback 350mm post be long enough, or do I need a 400mm post?
I am picking up parts for an alu Gnarvester build. It is a large frame (19") and I am 6'0" with a 32" inseam. I'm trying to figure out what length seatpost I should order. Will a layback 350mm post be long enough, or do I need a 400mm post?
Thanks.
32" inseam is jeans size or bike-fit inseam?
Either way the 350 should be fine. I'm 6' 2" and wear 32" jeans and my 375mm Fall Line dropper is nearly fully inserted.
I am picking up parts for an alu Gnarvester build. It is a large frame (19") and I am 6'0" with a 32" inseam. I'm trying to figure out what length seatpost I should order. Will a layback 350mm post be long enough, or do I need a 400mm post?
Thanks.
Easy enough to figure out. Measure the BB to top of the saddle distance on your current bike. Subtract the seattube length from that and see where you are at.
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